Full Chisel Blog

May 15, 2013

Rocking Chair restoration

Filed under: Furniture,Historical Material,Of Interest,Restoration,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 9:21 am

This will be the first in a series covering the restoration of this late 19th century rocking chair that belonged to my friends grandmother.  He remembers the chair as brown so we will be removing the white paint, repairing any broken parts and re-caning the seat and backs with factory woven cane.

chair1

The cane on the seat and lower back are secured by the standard spline, however the top back with its double curves is secured in a wooden framework, I have never seen this method of attaching cane in 40 years of doing repair work.

chair2

Here is a photograph of my ‘apprentice’ Woody working on removing the seat and spline.  Boiling water was used to soften the spline.  Today he will be learning how to strip off paint.  It is good to have someone interested in learning and he likes the work.

Stephen

May 3, 2013

The Complete Cabinet Maker And Upholsterer’s Guide – J. Stokes 1829

stokes1829

Gary Roberts over at Toolemera has done it again and reproduced a fine tome from the nineteenth century.  The book has many full color plates, hand colored engravings and Mr. Roberts has reproduced the entire book in color, so the pages appear as they would in an original edition.

Mr. Stokes has done an excellent job at assembling material from his peers and predecessors, which I won’t call plagiarism as it was common practice.  Some of the engravings have the long f for the s, indicating an earlier time.

The book is however full of very useful information about lay out, perspective, drawing, design and construction of furniture, with an emphasis on finishing, which I found fascinating.  This is a great hardbound edition of an historical work that is a pleasure to hold in ones hand and read about the past and the ways of old.  Add this one to your bibliotheque.

Stephen

February 16, 2013

Pivot Hinge made from the under-rib of a muzzle loading rifle.

Filed under: Documentation,Furniture,Hardware,Of Interest,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 2:43 pm
pivot hinge1

I didn’t have my gnomon, that is a Mini-Mag flashlight

Here is another documented example of what lengths cabinetmaker’s had to go to make furniture on the frontier of Utah in the mid nineteenth century.  It is a pivot hinge that has been fabricated from part of the under-rib of a half stock muzzle loading rifle.  The cabinet was made by Henry Dinwoody in Salt Lake City, Utah Territory in the mid nineteenth century.  It is a wardrobe and these are the pivot hinges for two large flat panel doors.  The secondary wood is pine and the primary wood is black walnut made from packing crates.

pivot hinge3

Brigham Young instructed the saints to have items shipped to the West in hardwood shipping crates and these pieces of wood used in this large wardrobe have neatly bung plugged holes where the nails secured the shipping crate together.

When I first examined this piece in the 1970’s and immediately noticed that the hinges were made from the gun part, just from the visible end profile, the under-rib has a particular shape that was easy for me to realize, as I had recently just completed my first black powder gun.

pivot hinge2

Years later I was able to further examine the piece and found a touch mark on one side of one of the hinges and it is illustrated in the photographs.  I am not sure what they are, any ideas?

Someone gave me an old under-rib and I have it somewhere in my collection of stuff, and I intend to make it into pivot hinges like this historic example.

Stephen

 

February 8, 2013

Double Leaf Hinge made from a wrought iron barrel band

Filed under: Furniture,Hardware,Historical Material,Of Interest,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 11:12 am

leaf hinge1

leaf hinge2

leaf hinge3

It is rare that one finds this particular style of hinge on a piece of furniture made from between 1847 to 1850, as the double leaf hinge usually dates from the late 18th century to the early 19th century.  It is also rare to find a documented piece of early Utah furniture, knowing the original owner from the family history but also be able to determine the original maker because of the construction and decorating techniques.

The piece of furniture is a large secretary with a fold down desk top with loafers to support and has an integral upper double glazed doors.  One of the doors was missing and one hinge was still attached to the carcase.  The intact door also had hinges made in the same manner.  This particular hinge has evidence that it was made from something else as it had a large hole on the underside [out of view] that shouldn’t have been there if it were made from sheet iron.

The hole, with evidence it had been punched is I am certain a hole from one of the two rivets on each barrel band from a water or whiskey barrel.  Out here in Utah in the 1850’s everything is repurposed because of the lack of supplies.  I have seen a pivot hinge made from the under rib of a half stock muzzle loading rifle.

double leaf hingeThe hinge is 2″ long, 1 13/16″ wide [open], [1 1/32" wide closed], and the metal is .051″ thick, the pin is 1/8″ in diameter.

The drawing indicates how the hinge would look if it was unfolded.  There are two choices as to how the hole was arranged on the barrel.  Because of a small surface crack on the barrel, I think it was made from a fairly wide barrel band.  The grain in the wrought iron would go along the length of the barrel band.

Every other example from this period and place I have examined is the single leaf style hinge; see Shepherds’ Compleat Early Nineteenth Century Woodworker page 73.

Interesting piece of history.

Stephen

January 11, 2013

Shepherds’ Compleat Early Nineteenth Century Woodworker – First Review

bookcover2

This is the first book review of my first book that was originally published in hardbound in 1981.  This review appeared in Smithsonian Magazine April 1982.

smithsonian1

smithsonian2

 

 

I found this while doing research at the University of Nevada, Reno at their excellent library.

Now I need to find the reviews in Workbench Magazine, Soldier of Fortune Magazine and Museum of the Fur Trade Quarterly.

Available at Tools for Working Wood

and The Full Chisel Store or from Amazon.  Amazon also has original hardbound editions for sale.

Stephen

December 3, 2012

High School Wood Shop Project ca 1941-1944 – Restoration

A small restoration project came through a referral from a friend.  The table was built by the clients father in High School sometime between 1941 and 1944, it is built from birch, stained walnut, hide glue, iron screws and a shellac finish.

One of the tripod legs had come loose and one of the dowels broke, I first drilled out the broken dowel parts using a gimblet bit, a small carving gouge and a duck bill spoon bit.  The gimblet bit drills roughly down the center, then with the carving gouge remove most of the remaining wood, then using the spoon bit to clean out and prepare the hole for a new dowel.  The replacement dowel is also made of birch.

I will replace this label with one on acid free paper with all of the information.

I used a couple of hook scrapers I made from saw blade fragments from making cabinet scrapers.  I heated them up in order to get a sharp bend then heated and quenched to harden it again.  Sharpened to a 45 degree angle with no burr.

I also roughened the surfaces prior to re-gluing the leg and new dowel in place.  I used a knife to cross hatch score the glue surfaces.

I used hot hide glue, 1 teaspoon glue : 2 teaspoons distilled water in my small glue pot, turned on the heat and 10 minutes later glued the leg into place.  I held the leg against the post for about 5 minutes, then applied blue painters tape to hold in place.

I will treat it with Moses T’s Reviver tomorrow, after I wash off any glue residue.  The surface has some alligator texture, which I will leave as part of its history.  This table is not an antique but it is older than me.

Stephen

November 29, 2012

Hand Carved Mirror Frame/Looking Glass – Restoration

A friend picked this up in Oregon, he didn’t buy it the first time he was there, but when his wife traveled to Oregon, he had her go find it, which she did with much trouble.  For some reason he doesn’t like the color paint and wanted it restored?

I used a citrus based stripper [in a modern spray can, well it was modern paint] to remove the paint, I did one section at a time, masking the surrounding surfaces with modern blue painter’s tape [it was modern paint!].

After the stripper had been washed and scrubbed of with an old modern plastic toothbrush [it was modern paint/stripper], and water, which I allowed to dry completely.   I washed down with alcohol to remove the residue of stripper.  I also used a brass wire brush to remove some of the residue in the grain and fine crevices of the details of the carvings.

This is a picture with half of the frame treated with Moses T’s Reviver, showing the difference, I then treated the entire frame with Reviver.

I then used a bit of Reviver and added some burnt umber, yellow ocher, and red iron oxide dry powdered pigments and applied a thin coat of this stain over the entire frame.  I also stripped the back and treated it in a similar manner, taking special care that the rebate for the mirror was stripped and stained.  Failing to do so, it will show up when the mirror is installed.

The final photograph is with a coat of very thin shellac.  After I took this picture, I did some minor touch up with shellac and burnt umber and red iron oxide pigments, then applied another fine thin coat of shellac.

The next step will be gesso and bole then gold leaf on the sun carving.  Should be fun.

Stephen

 

November 26, 2012

Michael Thonet Child’s Arm Chair with caned seat

Filed under: Documentation,Furniture,Historical Material,Of Interest,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 10:56 am

This is only the second old Thonet chair I have ever seen and I am not sure of the age of this chair, but I think it might be an early one.  It belongs to a friend and it was given to him by his mother for his children.  Well the kids are too big for the chair so he was going to give it to his neighbor, but wanted me to look at it first.  [He is not giving it away now].

The caned seat is in remarkably good condition, they are usually damaged.

The caned back however was damaged and the replacement of the back would require the bent wood spline from the back to be removed to expose the caning holes and groove for the caning.

The spline is difficult to see but it runs around the back in two pieces, one straight one at the bottom and one curved piece for the sides and top, nice touch.

Here is the Shop label on the inside front of the chair seat.

There are also well worn paper labels, I can make out ‘Beware of Imitators – No Goods Certified without this Trademark’.  There are also several small pieces of paper with ’24′ printed on them and glued to the undersides of the arms and inside legs, see left hand side of the picture below.

I think I am going to try and talk the owner into allowing me to restore this nice little chair.  I did some research but have not seen another image of this chair.

Stephen

 

August 27, 2012

Flocking – pseudo suede

I had never run into this in 40 years of doing restoration work and this is the first time for me to flock.  I asked some questions over at WoodCentral and got some good responses.  I then got an opportunity to talk with Michael Donaldson, son of a late friend of mine Dan Donaldson, when he was on a cross country car trip from Washington State to North Carolina.

He had experience with this, where I thought I could just pour the flocking on the adhesive and shake it around.  He said that he tried that and it didn’t work the only thing that works is the flocking tool.  So I popped the $8.00 for the flocking tool and am glad I did.

After reading and following all of the written and verbal instructions, I used masking tape to mask off the top of the drawer to keep the colored adhesive from sticking where I don’t want it sticking.

This is what the oak sewing machine drawer looked like with the adhesive freshly applied.

The masking tape is a good idea, as you only have 10-15 minutes open time on the adhesive, so I worked quickly and got some adhesive on the tape.  I removed the tape before applying the powdered flock.

And this is the view of the plastic lined box [to recover any unused flocking material] with the drawer after it is flocked.  The yellow tube is the flocker, simple be effective.  It needs to dry 48 hours before the excess flocking is removed.  And yes there is a lot of flocking as per instructions.

Stephen

 

August 3, 2012

Speaking of Shellac and French Polish

Filed under: Alchemy,Finishing,Furniture,Historical Material,Of Interest — Stephen Shepherd @ 11:53 am

Here is an interesting quote, I would like to thank Vic Hubbard for sending me part of this book:

‘Of course, the operator must always bear in mind, during the several operations, that care and cleanliness are two necessary factors, and without them, there can be no such thing as satisfactory results.  A slovenly workman should never attempt to polish, for no good can come from it.  In all my experience, which covers many years, I have never known of a careless or slovenly man making good work in this particular department.’

Fred T. Hodgson

Hodgson’s New Hardwood Finishing, Including Wood Manipulation Staining And Polishing

The publication was in the early 20th century.

Stephen

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