I am offering a pre-publication sale on the Spinning Wheel Repair Book which is going to the press soon. I will be delivering these by the first week of December 2014.
Here is a mock up of the cover, color being added as we speak, original artwork by Tim Burnham.
For the first 25 orders I will include an 8.5″ by 11″ hand impressed copy of the hand set title page by Lauri Taylor of Loose Cannon Press, along with your order.
The book is 8.5″ by 11″, 77 pages with 160 illustrations and 25 photographs.
The book can be ordered here at the Full Chisel Store, the price is $20.00 plus $6.00 domestic shipping. International shipping charges apply. The book will be shipped by early December, 2014.
Thanks to all of those who helped with this publication.
First of all I want to let everyone know everything is fine here, because I haven’t posted recently I have been receiving a lot of inquiries. I have been busy finishing up my next book on Spinning Wheel Repair.
Here is a mock up of the hand set type title page, still in need some adjustment, it is being done by a friend. The forward was written by a friend. I am having the cover art finished up by another friend and one more technical part being done by another friend, thank goodness for friends.
The book will be out in time for the holidays, but I am thinking of taking orders earlier.
This is a maiden from a Canadian Production Wheel and had been previously repaired. It was repaired with hide glue but the small bamboo skewer just wasn’t big enough to reinforce the joint.
I had to remove a nail holding the stub of the tenon on the end of the off-side maiden. Instead of making a new maiden, I decided to use a shouldered tenon and make it match the original. With the nail removed I could remove the stub tenon.
I cut the maiden off flush at the shoulder for the end of the maiden, then drilled a 1/4″ twist auger and then enlarged it with a 3/8″ duck bill spoon bit. I fit the new birch tenon into the hole, applied hide glue and clamped it together.
I also drilled a hole with a gimlet bit for the wedge and made a new one of birch to match the original
The next day I applied pigmented shellac to match the original finish on the parts exposed. The customer was happy.
A friend of mine showed me a bottle of Franklin/Titebond Liquid Hide Glue with an old expiration date and he thought it was still good. I looked at the date and it was 7-01 and I thought there was no way it was any good. So I did the finger/thumb test and sure enough it exhibited ‘legging’ or ‘cottoning’ indicating it was still good.
So the following day I conducted the only sanction test for testing the usefullness of liquid hide glue, a bead of glue on paper, cooked in a 150 degree [F] oven for 15 to 20 minutes and allowed to cool. To my surprise it cracked indicating it was still good.
It had not been stored in special conditions although the shop never got real hot. Good idea to test before you throw it away.
A friend for whom I have done repairs on spinning wheels brought me a loom she had got from India made of teak. The problem was that it would not lock adequately into the upright position. I examined the loom and determined that the slotted machine screws just spun as the wingnuts were tightened.
The loom was actually quite well made, except for the white plastic parts, but they just couldn’t or didn’t figure out all of the details. So I decided that two of the four machine screws in question could be replaced with simple carriage bolts. I used a square file to make the bolt go into the hole without splitting the wood, and that worked out fine.
However the other two machine screws could not be replaced with ordinary carriage bolts, so I had master blacksmith Mark Schramm weld on tabs on both sides of the square top of the carriage bolts. I had to remove one of the shed spacers in order to remove the old screws and insert the new tabbed carriage bolts.
Once they were in place I repositioned the spacers in the proper location, put it back together and low and behold it works. And the happy customer brought me this hand spun dishtowel that she had made on the loom. Thank you.
Other side view
Eight and 1/2 inches long, 4 3/16 inches wide, and 2 3/16 inches thick, plus or minus a bit as it is 300 years old. Sent to me by my friend Sir William from the East coast as an ingredient for an old recipe for cutler’s cement that calls for brick dust.
It is a very hard brick and if you look closely you can see the shells from the lime making process in the matrix of the brick. The brick weighs 5 pounds. Seems a shame to grind it up, but it will give me a chance to test out my new cast iron mortar and pestle, and there apprently are more available.
I will report the results of the cutler’s cement recipe trials as they happen.
I can and do own a root burl war club, I own a Pueblo rabbit stick, I own a tomahawk, I own a bow and arrows, I own a 1842 Springfield musket, I own a 1848 Colt pocket pistol, I own a 1860 English double barrel 12 gauge shotgun, but I Can Not own a slingshot [county law]. Not sure about my David/Goliath sling?
I made this from maple to match the tapered octagonal handles of the rest of my shop tools, oak dowels are glued [fish glue] in to the ends of the forks. Natural gum rubber tubing, a piece of leather and linen thread to secure all the parts. It is finished with Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish.
However because it is illegal, I have not weaponized the flipper.
Yes it does match my other maple octagonal tapered handles on my chisels and dovetail saws. This has been on my list since childhood.
It is not a caliper, it is not a tuning fork, it is not a truncated trident, it is not a gimble, it is not a frog gig, it is not a boot jack, it is not an oar lock, it is not a pattern for a flyer [although I did use a flyer for the layout], it is not a crutch, it is not a stirrup, it is not a gun rest, it is not an equitorial mount and it is not brought to you by the letter ‘Y’. What is it?
Alas after nearly 10 years my ‘hand of death’ flyswatter is getting a bit limp in the wrist. I personally take a hand in the demise of the flies.
It has a hickory handle, waxed linen thread ‘netting’ the handle with a one piece leather strap. The leather hand is held to the hickory handle with an iron staple that is clinched. I straightened out the staple, removed the old hand and replaced it with a new one.
Now it is ready for the nasty flying bugs.
The first picture is of an accurate copy of the Hudson Bay Fur Company trade awls sold by the hundreds to Native Americans in the late 18th and early 19th centuries in North America. It was made several years ago by my friend Richard James, I handled it up and made the leather sheath.
The one pictured below is made by master blacksmith Mark Schramm for me, like I need another awl.
I also handled up 4 awls for him to sell, the handles are curly maple. I rough shaped them with a rasp then scraped them smooth. The hole is drilled with a small gimblet bit, drills great in end grain and makes the proper shaped hole. I then heated up one of the awls to cherry red and burned the tapered hole for a perfect fit.
They are finished with Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish. Mark will be selling them at an upcoming event over the Fourth of July Weekend.