Full Chisel Blog

June 17, 2013

Blow Pipe Bellows

This has been on my list for a while and now I can cross it off.  It is based on a traditional design and is a typical two chambered bellows powered by a foot treadle.  I over thought the design and got retentive about vortices and valve placement, but was told not to worry about those things by a physicist.

I had some 1″+ thick pine, I used one piece of full thickness for the center board then had my apprentice re-saw the other board into two 1/2″ boards, one for each chamber.  Also had him hand plane the surfaces smooth [again worried about the smoothness and air currents].

blowpipe bellows1

The leather for the bellows is oak tanned and quite thin, the pattern for the bellows needs to be offset to account for the fact that when it is open the moving boards are shorter than when closed, typical of bellows construction.

blowpipe bellows6

I used the same leather for the main hinge and for the internal valves.  The center valve is inset in a rectangular shallow mortise to give more room in the upper chamber.  The entrance valve is mounted flush as the board is only 1/2″ thick.

blowpipe bellows5

I used an old piece of flat spring steel that I fashioned into a spring to push the lower chamber back open after the foot pedal is pressed.  The weight of the lower board will also help open the chamber as the leather softens up a bit after use.  In my too-much-attention-to-detail, I inadvertently mortised the space for the spring on the wrong side, fortunately the center board was thick enough to accommodate the mortise on the correct side.

blowpipe bellows4

blowpipe bellows3

I glued a small piece of leather on the hinge end to hold things together and eventually with both side leathers become the bellows hinges.

blowpipe bellows2

The first side I glued and tacked on by myself, it was such a gluing frenzy that I ended up with glue in my beard.  I used Lee Valley Fish Glue because of its aggressive tack to glue the leather to the board.  All edges of the boards were smoothed and toothed with a toothing plane, glue applied to both leather and boards.

blowpipe bellows7

The second side I had help from my apprentice and it went much more smoothly and after 226 tacks [total for both chambers] it was complete.  I then went on and made the base which consists of a board for the bottom and three uprights mortised and tenoned into the base and glued in place.  I then began on the treadle.

blowpipe bellows8

Once again I was over-thinking the foot treadle design trying to come up with a mechanism that would push up on the bellows when the foot treadle was pressed.  I looked through 507 Mechanical Movements from Tools for Working Wood for inspiration.  One of those slap my forehead moments when I saw an illustration of a see-saw, teeter totter.  Push down on one side and the other goes up.

blowpipe bellows9

A metal hinge simply would not work for the fulcrum of the treadle so I settled on leather held in place with round head screws and glue.  The end of the treadle that pushes against the bellows, I inserted a wooden wheel in a slot to reduce friction.

I hooked it up to a hose and blow pipe and it works as advertised.  Fun project now to find a buyer.

Stephen

 

May 29, 2013

My Dust Collection System

Filed under: Historical Material,Of Interest,Proper Tools,Shop,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 10:18 am

It is 100% reliable, totally effective, environmentally responsible and cost less than $200.00.  The brooms were made by a friend and the tin dust pan made by another at Hot Dip Tin.

dust collector

Stephen

May 15, 2013

Rocking Chair restoration

Filed under: Furniture,Historical Material,Of Interest,Restoration,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 9:21 am

This will be the first in a series covering the restoration of this late 19th century rocking chair that belonged to my friends grandmother.  He remembers the chair as brown so we will be removing the white paint, repairing any broken parts and re-caning the seat and backs with factory woven cane.

chair1

The cane on the seat and lower back are secured by the standard spline, however the top back with its double curves is secured in a wooden framework, I have never seen this method of attaching cane in 40 years of doing repair work.

chair2

Here is a photograph of my ‘apprentice’ Woody working on removing the seat and spline.  Boiling water was used to soften the spline.  Today he will be learning how to strip off paint.  It is good to have someone interested in learning and he likes the work.

Stephen

May 14, 2013

Double Hacksaw – 1749

turning1

I have posted about this hacksaw before during a workshop with the Nevada WoodChucks, and thought I would post the original influence.  Charles Plummier’s L’art de Tourner published in 1749, this is a photograph of an original edition in the collection of Ray Wilson of Indianapolis.  I shot the photograph in 1977.

double hacksaw

I have made and sold several of these including a couple of replacement arms, it is remarkably easy to break the end by overtightening the tension.  An iron version would not have this problem.  Very handy tool which I find I use on a regular basis.

I used the shape of the iron version on the upper left as I liked the looks of the arms, the wooden version is on the upper right.  Did you know the paint on hacksaw blades is actually a lubricant?

Stephen

 

May 9, 2013

Scorching Sand

scorching sand

I am in need of some scorching sand for heat shading veneer and for hardening goose writing quills.  I got a couple of cups of sand from a friend, it was left over from an out door cook oven.  It is coarse construction sand and was in need of cleaning.

I first ran it through a coarse sieve [12 wires per inch], the stuff that didn’t make it through went into the garden.  I then ran  the sand through fine brass screen [20 wires per inch].  The stuff that didn’t make it through I separated out and saved it for future use, thinking I would still need to wash it when I was done.

Everything that fell through the fine brass wire screen contained all of the fines and dust, which I assumed I would have to wash it and dry it out.  As I was pouring the sand from one container to another the wind blew some of the fine dust away.  Now I was winnowing the sand and in about 15 minutes it was very clean.  I didn’t have to wash it after all.

The size of the sand really does not matter for scortching wood or hardening quills, but it is nice to have two different sizes of winnowed sand.

Stephen

 

May 3, 2013

The Complete Cabinet Maker And Upholsterer’s Guide – J. Stokes 1829

stokes1829

Gary Roberts over at Toolemera has done it again and reproduced a fine tome from the nineteenth century.  The book has many full color plates, hand colored engravings and Mr. Roberts has reproduced the entire book in color, so the pages appear as they would in an original edition.

Mr. Stokes has done an excellent job at assembling material from his peers and predecessors, which I won’t call plagiarism as it was common practice.  Some of the engravings have the long f for the s, indicating an earlier time.

The book is however full of very useful information about lay out, perspective, drawing, design and construction of furniture, with an emphasis on finishing, which I found fascinating.  This is a great hardbound edition of an historical work that is a pleasure to hold in ones hand and read about the past and the ways of old.  Add this one to your bibliotheque.

Stephen

April 27, 2013

Hand Forged Glue Scraper

Filed under: Clamping,Of Interest,Proper Tools,Scrapers,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 11:38 am

Master Blacksmith Mark Schramm made this specialty glue scraper for a friend that makes wooden blanks for snowboards and skies.  He has a rack of specialized bar clamps to clamp the blanks of aspen together.  In the coarse of gluing the pipes get covered with glue, making alignment of the boards difficult, so he needed a solution.

glue scraper1

 

glue scraper2

 

My friend and his young son that he is teaching to turn made the handle and used a piece of copper pipe for the ferrule and the wood came from a pallet.  The blade is made to fit the curve of the pipes and makes quick work of the dried glue.

Nice work Mark.

Stephen

April 13, 2013

It is a Glue Pot, not a Cast Iron Ink Well

Went with a friend yesterday to a local Antique Mall and had not intended to make a purchase.  I did examine a pair of scissor type candle wick trimmer but determined it was plate and had a couple of missing feet, a nice trimmer none the less.  I passed.

I finished going through the booths and was waiting on my friend when I spotted the little lidded cast iron glue pot in a locked glass case.  I couldn’t see the price tag, so I had one of the people open the cabinet.

gluepot1

Still a little old hide glue left in the bottom of the pot.  There is some remnants of tinning on the inside of the glue pot itself.  The water jacket has some surface rust but no pitting.

gluepot2

It was a little pricey, did get 10% off the tagged price, but I couldn’t get any more off even when I told them it wasn’t a ‘cast iron ink well’ as marked.  But this one is the first one I have seen [I have only seen 2 in person and 2 or 3 more photographs] that had its delicate opening handle on the lid.  All I have seen and the one I already own have the handle broken off.

gluepot3

I believe that it is marked L,F & C, although the last letter may be a G.

I do plan on selling my old one, the very one featured in Hide Glue – Historical & Practical Applications I will be offering it for sale with a copy of the book.

The best source of reliable ground hide glue in various gram strengths is Tools for Working Wood.

Stephen

 

April 9, 2013

Vise upgrade

Filed under: Clamping,Historical Material,Of Interest,Proper Tools,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 11:13 am

I built this particular vise back in 2002 and it has been in constant use since that time.  The photograph below was taken in 2005 and it had seen some use since then and was in need of an upgrade.

I used a toothing plane to smooth off the saw marks, chisel marks, etc that had marked up the top of the maple chops.  I then used a card scraper to remove the toothing marks and the surface was ready for the upgrade.

vise update

Using my one inch ruler punch I marked off a ruler a little over 5″ in length on the top edge.  I first used a cold chisel to mark the one inch marks, then used the punch to fill in.   I then used my old number punches to mark the increments. [I didn’t think I needed to include the gnomon on this picture.

I should have done this when I first built the vise as I have already found it to be very helpful.

Stephen

April 7, 2013

Felibien Iron Bar Clamp

Although I am not sure how to pronounce the name, he is a precursor of Roubo and published his work on Architecture [slightly misleading name] in 1690!  This style of clamp keeps getting older and older.  The link is a pdf of his book, which is written in old French but the pictures are in English.

Felibein

This is the second pair order and will be shipped out in the morning.  I also used my bow saw to enlarge the notches in my clamp extension for my personal clamp.

iron bar clamps and extension

Clamps can be ordered here.  Contact me by email if you desire longer sizes.

Stephen

 

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