Full Chisel Blog

January 11, 2013

Shepherds’ Compleat Early Nineteenth Century Woodworker – First Review

bookcover2

This is the first book review of my first book that was originally published in hardbound in 1981.  This review appeared in Smithsonian Magazine April 1982.

smithsonian1

smithsonian2

 

 

I found this while doing research at the University of Nevada, Reno at their excellent library.

Now I need to find the reviews in Workbench Magazine, Soldier of Fortune Magazine and Museum of the Fur Trade Quarterly.

Available at Tools for Working Wood

and The Full Chisel Store or from Amazon.  Amazon also has original hardbound editions for sale.

Stephen

December 6, 2012

Traditional Molinillo / Chocolate Pot Stirring Stick

I got an order from the Tinsmith over at Hot Dip Tin for a couple of chocolate pot stirring sticks or molinillos for his chocolate pots.  I looked at many designs mostly from Mexico but did see a few European style from which I took the pattern and created my own version.

While looking around for a piece of maple to make them from, I came across some maple balusters I have been packing around for several years and immediately saw that I could get a stick from each one.

Probably would have been easier to chuck it up and re-turn the top handle, but I chose to shape it with a drawknife, spokeshaves to get the rough shape.  I sawed off the ends and used chisels to carve the round bottom part, both a V chisel and flat chisel to form the reeds.  I used carving gouges to shape the fluted transition to the round handle.  I also used my tombstone scrapers for the final shaping.

I raised the grain and lightly sanded the finished stir stick and applied a coat of Hemp Seed Oil for the finish.  Yes hemp seed oil is a drying oil like linseed oil, walnut oil, and poppy seed oil.

Now to make the other one.

Stephen

November 29, 2012

Hand Carved Mirror Frame/Looking Glass – Restoration

A friend picked this up in Oregon, he didn’t buy it the first time he was there, but when his wife traveled to Oregon, he had her go find it, which she did with much trouble.  For some reason he doesn’t like the color paint and wanted it restored?

I used a citrus based stripper [in a modern spray can, well it was modern paint] to remove the paint, I did one section at a time, masking the surrounding surfaces with modern blue painter’s tape [it was modern paint!].

After the stripper had been washed and scrubbed of with an old modern plastic toothbrush [it was modern paint/stripper], and water, which I allowed to dry completely.   I washed down with alcohol to remove the residue of stripper.  I also used a brass wire brush to remove some of the residue in the grain and fine crevices of the details of the carvings.

This is a picture with half of the frame treated with Moses T’s Reviver, showing the difference, I then treated the entire frame with Reviver.

I then used a bit of Reviver and added some burnt umber, yellow ocher, and red iron oxide dry powdered pigments and applied a thin coat of this stain over the entire frame.  I also stripped the back and treated it in a similar manner, taking special care that the rebate for the mirror was stripped and stained.  Failing to do so, it will show up when the mirror is installed.

The final photograph is with a coat of very thin shellac.  After I took this picture, I did some minor touch up with shellac and burnt umber and red iron oxide pigments, then applied another fine thin coat of shellac.

The next step will be gesso and bole then gold leaf on the sun carving.  Should be fun.

Stephen

 

September 29, 2012

Traditional Tanged Spokeshave Workshop – Reno, NV Sept. 2012

The workshop for the Nevada WoodChucks was a success, at the end all of the people had a usable traditional spokeshave with a tanged blade.  When I teach workshops, I build one to show the various steps, but in this case I didn’t have an opportunity to finish the one I was working on as I had to help a couple of new students with their project.

I did manage to finish mine when I returned home.  It is fancier than most I have made, I usually go for an earlier style like here.

Joe has taken my class before and here he is concentrating on his task of smoothing the throat.

Ed, a vetern of several workshops I have taught in Reno goes about forming the throat of the spokeshave, good two handed technique.

Rod [on the right], another repeat offender brought a friend to audit the class.

Jim is a first time participant in one of my workshops.  I spent additional time with him and Skip another first timer.

Charlie, my youngest student ever [6 years old] had an impressive set of tools, his dad Chuck a turner said his son owned all the bench tools.  Photo below shows a trusting father, with a bit of concern in his look.

Chuck and Charlie watching Rod at work on his spokeshave.

I demonstrated how to use a burn auger and a video was made so here it is.  We turned the fan on after the first one to prevent the smoke alarm from calling the local fire department.

burn auger video

The spokeshave blades required sharpening, which was done with a file.  Two of the blades proved to soft and needed to be heated cherry red, quenched in water, polished bright and heated to temper with a straw color, then quenched.  The spokeshaves were all finished with Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish.

Stephen

 

May 29, 2012

Repairing Buddha

A friend of mine brought this to me to do a repair, it is not terribly old, the carving is good but not great and it suffered from a seasoning check.  It may have cracked shortly after being carved, as it is carved from a round log of wood.

It had been ‘repaired’ at least twice, the first time with some sort of colored clay that almost matched the crack.  It had then been worked over with what looks like a wax furniture repair stick, the lighter color.

The crack goes from the toes to the top of the head.  The first repair was almost undetectable, especially under the bright orange wax work.

Using a thin pallet knife and small needle, I removed the previous ‘repairs’.  I also used an old toothbrush to clean off any residue.

I will mix up some Beaumontage with dry powdered pigments and fill the crack.  I choose not to replace the missing with wood as I think the crack will continue and this ‘repair’ can be easily redone in the future.

Stephen

March 28, 2012

Leg repair – finished

I finished the repair with a couple of coats of shellac, sprayed on using a mouth atomizer.  I had to soak the atomizer in alcohol to clean it out to make it work properly.  This is important as a blocked or slightly blocked atomizer just doesn’t work properly.  I could tell when I immediately got light headed from trying to force the atomizer to work under less then ideal conditions.

Two other legs [not repaired] on one end were not damaged but the joints were loose, so I worried them apart, cleaned the joint [of old hide glue fortunately] and glued the legs on one at a time.

Once this the hot hide glue set up overnight, I glued on the other leg.  Then it came time to glue on the repaired leg.  I had drilled the two holes for the dowels [one replacement] using a twist auger bit and a duck billed spoon bit in a brace.  Once I was happy with the fit, I glued it with hot hide glue.

I did have one glue up fiasco where I could not get the joint up tight after three attempts, so I took the joint apart and cleaned off the gelled glue and allowed it to dry overnight.  I cleaned things up again after it had dried overnight, got the joint tight, the dowel was slightly too long, which I did not notice during dry fit up.

One thing I like about my little glue pot is that I can mix up a small quantity for a small job.  One teaspoon of granular hide glue and two teaspoons of distilled water gave just the proper consistency.

I will remove the clamps today and wash the table with soap and water then treat it with a coat of Moses T’s Reviver to bring it back to near original condition.

Stephen

 

March 18, 2012

Leg repair continued

I started this repair much earlier and am getting down to the finishing process, this is how it came out.

I then did some darkening with burnt umber in shellac, then added a wash of shellac and yellow ocher dry powdered pigment.  After it dried I mixed up a bit of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil, and kieselguhr [rottenstone, Tripoli, diatomaceous earth], and rubbed into the grain of the new wood to fill the pores of the mahogany.

It is a bit hazy and should get even more hazy as the oil dries.  It is raining today so it may take an extra day to dry out before it can be sanded and the finish process continues.

Stephen

March 13, 2012

Twin Bill Hardy Hole Anvil – Rockwell 58

Got the new anvils and they are hardened to RC 58, harder than the previous anvils [which will be rehardened].  Also took care of some of the bad factory grinding and all of the anvils look great now.

I will put these up for sale in the Full Chisel Store soon.  Price $225.00 FOB Salt Lake City, Utah and domestic shipping $12.00, shipping to Canada $35.00.

Stephen

March 9, 2012

Foaming Polyurethane Glue disaster

I started this project a while back, and it has been hidden in the corner of the shop until I recently started to clean and organize my shop.  The leg was badly repaired and broken again, here are details.

When I first started repairing old furniture about 40 years ago, my nemosis was modern white and yellow glue, then hot glue guns became the rage and just when I didn’t think things could get worse, foaming polyurethane glue was introduced.  Me against modern technology, and the new stuff beat me on this one.,

I had to make a decision, try and get the pieces clean enough to re-glue, which is what I normally do, trying to save as much of the original as possible.  In this case the damage was so catastrophic that I had no choice but to remove all of the damage and put in a new piece.

After I sawed off the damaged wood I used a toothing plane to get it flat and properly prepared for hot hide glue.  I fashioned a new piece separately and will glue it on the the existing leg then do the final feathering of the details.

I loaned my large glue pot to a friend and am in the process of cleaning and re-tinning my small one, so I will have to do a makeshift glue-pot for this repair.

Stephen

 

 

February 21, 2012

Twin bill hardy hole anvil

I posted about making the pattern for this anvil here.  It was from a design by Mark Schramm, master blacksmith and we finally got them from the foundry today.  This is how they look before Mr. Schramm spent a bit of time smoothing them out.

The anvils weigh 6 pounds, are cast steel, and hardened to RC52.  After some time on his grinders, the anvils look like this.

And here is a view of the face of the anvil.

We will be offering these for sale.  Not only are they useful to a blacksmith as the 1″ square tang will fit in a hardy hole, but handy for woodworkers, will fit in a dog hole or can be mounted on a piece of wood for an easy and convenient place to straighten hardware or a bent nail.

Stephen

 

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