Full Chisel Blog

May 27, 2014

Spindle Wheel – New Mother-of-All, and Spindle

spindle head0This is a photograph sent in by a customer and in need of a new spindle head, maidens, and mother of all, and spindle.  They sent me the tension device on the left, an unusual two standard model with a tilting head and tightening nut to provide drive band tension.

spindle head1The uprights [standards] are made of chestnut, the block is birch and the nut is white oak, an American Wheel.  There is a name stamped on the end of the table, hard to see or tell exactly what it is but perhaps ‘NORTON’.  The new upright post that fits it the block is reclaimed chestnut and the Mother of All cross piece is birch.

I had to make a tapered reamer to match the tapered socket hole in the block, the first one was from soft maple and shattered during the third hole.  A new one of hard maple works much better.

tapered reamer1A slot is cut in the center and the blade is from an old saw and is draw filed square on the edge profile, it has four cutting edges and is used in both directions.

tapered reamer2The two maidens are also made of reclaimed chestnut and these are turned to fit the holes that have been reamed out with the above reamers.

spindle head1a

Here is how the detail on the maiden looks, after details on the existing standards.

spindle head2And here is the entire mother of all with the exception of the metal spindle, flange and drive pulley.  I will finish this piece first, the flange and pulley are made of maple which requires a different finish schedule.

spindle head3I will also permanently attach the single upright post into the birch cross piece with hide glue and a wedge, a little too small for a peg, either method is appropriate.  The maidens are just friction fit as is the mother of all into the tension block.

I also have to drill holes in the maidens to hold the corn husk bearings.

Stephen

May 7, 2014

Fairbanks Home – next phase

Filed under: Documentation,Hardware,Historical Material,Of Interest,Restoration,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 3:10 pm

The next phase of restoration of the Fairbanks Home at This is the Place Heritage Park in Salt Lake City, Utah has begun.  The sill, lintle and molding restoration is documented here.

removing kitchen door

The kitchen door and three lower window sashes needed attention.  The original door in the kitchen addition was in need of stripping the many layers of old paint, restoration to the woodwork and reattaching the hardware.

kitchen door outside

kitchen door inside

Here are photographs of the inside and outside of the door.

kitchen door outside stripped

kitchen door inside stripped

And here is what it looks like after the paint is removed.  The large number of nails, 54 in one cleat was surprising.

kitchen door cleat

The three lower window sashes all looked liked like the one in the photograph, the lower rails were rotten and the sash did not stay together.  Two sashes in the original part of the house have a bead detail on the frames and mullions, the window from the kitchen addition has much simpler detail.

window damage

More on the work later, have roughed out all of the rails and styles for the sash frames and the mullions are all finished, so it is time to chop and cope.

Stephen

 

March 16, 2014

Double Table Spinning Wheel Restoration

 

While I have restored probably well over 100 spinning wheels, this is my first double table spinning wheel restoration.  Of Scandinavian origins this wheel is a close match to this one featured on a Catalogue from a local Daughter’s of the Utah Pioneer Museum.

dt

Sometime during its history the original pitman was replaced with a homemade folk art replacement.  I do think because the pitman was rigid that it caused damage to the two uprights holding the wheel; the sockets in the lower table were both broken.  These were easy to repair as all of the parts and pieces were there, so using Fish Glue I filled the joints, clamped them and washed off the excess glue with a wet cloth.

dt3

dt1

dt2

There was an interesting piece of wood in one of the maidens, apparently to keep the flyer in place.  I had to remove this when the proper sized spindle, flyer, whorl, and bobbin were added.

dt4

The treadle also needed some repair as the end where the pitman is attached had a piece missing.  I shaped a new piece and glued it into place.

dt5

dt6

dt7

I also had to make new leather bearings for the maidens; first a paper pattern to fit the mortise and the leather bearing.  This is for a new spindle, flyer, whorl and bobbin that replaced the missing set.

dt8

I replaced the pitman with one influenced by the one on the original in the local museum.

dt9

The drive band is hemp cord that I washed, stretched, and allowed to dry.  I then treated it with Drive Belt Dressing.

Here are two views of the finished restoration.  This one belongs to a friend of mine who purchased it for $35.00 at a local swap meet and now that it is restored he intends to put it up for sale.

dt11

dt10

 

Stephen

 

 

February 9, 2014

Getting down to Brass Tacks

This term comes from the upholstery trade; brass tacks are the finishing touch and final job of an upholstered chair, settee, sofa, lounge, etc. as well as leather covered trunks.  So ‘getting down to brass tacks’ is the last part of the job.

tack

Here is a link to the website selling decent traditional brass tacks.  This link shows about the brass tacks.

brass tacks

My artwork [above] from 1994 was used by the site, I contacted the owner, proved I did the art and he sent me these tacks.  While they are not completely accurate, the originals were cast one piece, these brass tacks are the best available on the market.  They do pass the magnet test, which is a way to determine if the shanks are iron or steel.

If you are making 19th century accurate reproductions such as leather covered trunks, an upholstered piece of furniture or a brass tack knife sheath [the clinch looks correct] these tacks fit the bill.  I highly recommend them.

Stephen

January 28, 2014

I’ve got Chicken Nuts

Filed under: For Sale or Trade,Hardware,Of Interest,Restoration,Spinning Wheel,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 9:19 am

chicken nuts1

If you own a Canadian Pattern Spinning Wheel you know what I mean, as for the rest of you, it is not what you think.  Size 5/16″ by 18.

chicken nuts2

See Full Chisel Store.

Stephen

December 1, 2013

When a Spinning Wheel Treadle Axle becomes a Bifurcated [rinder] Bit

Let’s see how the search engines handle that!  The treadle on the painted spinning wheel I am currently restoring had badly worn axles as well as the wrought iron axles were delaminating and causing problems where they come in contact with the wooden legs.  Other parts of the restoration process are posted here and here.

treadle axle repair1

The nature of wrought iron with its inclusions of slag has resulted in the problems encountered here.  The wrought iron axles have delaminated and caused damage to the beech legs through which the axles pivot.

treadle axle repair3

Here is the damage done to the beech [worm damaged] leg.

treadle axle repair4

The first one I easily removed by grasping it with a pair of pliers, gently twisting and it came right out.  The second one was more of a problem and required some effort to get it loose.  I used a small pointed tool to deliniate a line around the axle between the metal and the wood.  I then put a drop of ethanol alcohol at the junction.  I repeated this several times, while gently twisting the axle with pliers.  After some time it became loose and more time and gentle work the axle came out.

treadle axle repair2

I will use hot hide glue to reattach the new iron axles [provided by Master Blacksmith Mark Schramm].  the tangs of the new axles will be prepared with garlic prior to gluing in place.

Stephen

 

 

November 27, 2013

Spinning Wheel leg[s] repair

This is a wheel I have been working on for a while, it is a painted lady, base coat of green paint followed by a coat of black paint and lots of grease [lanolin] on some parts.  It had suffered from powder post beetle infestation and the bottoms of the legs were in bad shape.  The legs and other parts are made from beech.

I needed to replace a large part of one leg and add on to the other two legs.  The long repair took place after I removed the damaged portion of the leg, this included the hole where the treadle axle pivots.  The damaged axles had rinded out the pivot hole and will require replacement and repair, this I will show in a later post.

I posted about the turned leg part here.  Here is the photograph of the cut being made; the turned leg is held in V-blocks held in my patternmaker’s vice.

leg repair1

I actually got a fairly square cut considering I was eye-balling the cut, it took just a little work with a chisel to get a good joint.

leg repair2

There is still some worm damage in the leg but the wood is not as punky as the lower part of the leg.

I used the V-blocks to hold the leg upright so I could drill a 1/2″ hole down the center {I wish I had my new doweling jig}, using my Fray & Pigg coachmaker’s brace.  I eye-balled the hole by sighting down at 90 degree angles.

leg repair3

Then a little chisel work and it came out fine.

leg repair4

The replacement part is extra long and will be cut off later.

 

leg repair5

When gluing up some of the Fish Glue came out one of the worm holes.  Also note that the new part is a bit proud.

leg repair6

I took care of the proud part of the new turning with a chisel, it was easy working down the grain, I smoothed off the chisel marks with a card scraper.  I will do a bit of sanding before painting, which I will do when all repairs have been made.

leg repair7

I used my miter block to cut off the damaged ends of the other legs and will scarf on new pieces of beech on the bottom of each leg, the angle worked out at 45 degrees.  If you look closely you can see the thin wafer of wood I removed to get to sound wood.  Note the rinded out axle hole from the treadle.

leg repair8

This photo shows how the scarf joint will look, the piece is longer than it needs to be.

More later.

Stephen

 

October 27, 2013

Spinning Wheel Flyer, first order completed

The first order for a complete Spinning Wheel Flyer, mandrel, whorl and bobbin is finished together with two extra bobbins [customer saved on shipping] and it will be ready to mail out the first of the week.

You can order Spinning Wheel parts at the Full Chisel Store.

Before gluing the mandrel into the flyer, I used a cold chisel to upset a series of burrs on the edges of the square part of the mandrel to help secure it to the maple flyer.  I then washed it down with alcohol to remove any residue of the charcoal I had used to fit the mandrel to the hole.  Don’t use graphite as it can interfere with the hide glue or in this case liquid fish glue from Lee Valley.

first order flyer9

I also used alcohol to clean the inside of the tapered mortise in the maple flyer to remove any charcoal remaining.  I then etched the metal mandrel with a fresh clove of garlic and glued it together.

finished order

I had marked out the flyer to length, cut off the excess and then installed the dozen wire hooks.  I flattened them where they go into the maple to prevent them from turning.

Fun project and I hope a happy customer.

Stephen

October 23, 2013

1805 Turning Bench [Treadle Lathe] Hardware

 

treadle lathe parts

Hardware for the 1805 Turning Bench has been difficult for those people building this treadle lathe to find, so after repeated requests I am pleased to offer the complete hardware package for sale at a very reasonable price.

treadle lathe mandrel1

The hardware made to the specifications of the plans and include the headstock mandrel with a slight variation from the old plans, newer sets of plans will include the change.  The center part of the mandrel is 1 1/8″ in diameter; 1″ on the original, this change gives a shoulder for the bearings.

crank1

The flywheel crank is as specified on the plans and can be keyed to secure on the wheel and is 3/4″ in diameter.

tailstockcrank1

The tailstock crank and locking nut are also the same as on the plans and the square nut is inlet into the wood of the tailstock to prevent it from turning.

Now people will be able to easily complete their own foot powered treadle lathe with this quality hardware.  You can order it from the Full Chisel Store.

Stephen

October 21, 2013

Casting a Pewter nut into a Wooden Spinning Wheel Whorl

I have had experience with casting pewter into or onto wood; back in 1972 I built a halfstock flintlock rifle and pistol and both had pewter endcaps cast on the end of the maple gunstocks.  So I had every confidence that this would be fairly easy.

whorl2

The square mortise is undercut on all four edges, so the nut is captured in a dovetail in the maple endgrain of the whorl.

whorl1

I had to borrow a casting ladle from a friend then melt down some pewter on the stove.  After the pewter was melted I put a rice grain size piece of beeswax into the hot metal to flux out any impurities, then used a wooden stick to remove the dross floating on the surface.

whorl3

whorl4

A dam of thick cardboard protects the maple of the whorl and adds thickness to the nut.  I cast the nut onto the shaft [with left hand threads], so the threads are cast into the pewter nut.  I heated up the shaft so as not to shock the hot pewter as it is being poured.

whorl5

whorl6

With a hacksaw I removed the excess and smoothed it down with a file, then gave it a bit of burnish.  Spinning Wheel parts available here.

Stephen

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