Full Chisel Blog

August 31, 2010

Curly Maple Spinning Wheel 5

I thought that this would be my last post, however when I put the wheel together today I noticed it was missing a pitman.  Well it will not work with out one so I turned one up.  I measured from the treadle up to the crank at bottom dead center and subtracted an inch to keep the treadle off the floor. 

After it is turned, I got it wet with water to raise the grain and allowed it to dry before scraping off the raised grain and burnishing the surface on the lathe with shavings.

Using a wide chisel I made the upper part flat on both sides, so it would fit on the iron crank.  I drilled the holes from both sides, a large 1/2″ hole for the button on the end of the crank and a smaller one for the shaft of the crank 3/8″.  I need to drill one more hole on the other end for the leather strap that connects the bottom of the pitman to the foot treadle.

Still need to finish the hooks on the flyer, but did get the whorl working, had to re-line the inside of the pulley with some very thin leather glued on with fish glue.  The shaft of the mandrel was not threaded but friction fit, interesting, so the leather was necessary to make the pulley hold tight.

I have an old pioneer wool walking wheel in the queue and have already made one part but trying to decide the tension mechanism.

Stephen

August 30, 2010

Handle for Blacksmith Tool

I needed to handle up a hot cutter, a tool used by blacksmiths to cut pieces while they are hot.  This is an unusual shape in that it has a curved blade.  The head can be reversed on the long handle and the tool is struck with a hammer to make the cut, in this case curved.  It could have other purposes.

I started with a split of hickory and with my mallet and froe, I split the wood down to the thickness I needed.

I then used my Ft. Meigs axe to take off the sharp edges and smooth down the top to fit in the head.  The curved blades allows me to hew the side of the split of hickory.

I used bot a rasp to get of the real rough stuff and a card scraper to smooth off the handle, but I held it in a different manner that allowed me to exert a lot of pressure making the work go quickly.

I also used another grip for the finer finishing work on the hard hickory handle.  I held the end against the bench hook.

Here is a picture of the head of the hot cutter.

And another view of the handle and hot cutter head.

And the other side.

Before I put any finish on the handle, I do as I do with all pieces made of wood, I raise the grain with water and smooth them off.  This insures that in the future when the wood gets wet it won’t swell again.

I will scrape it off and apply a coat of walnut oil, followed by a coat of linseed oil.

Stephen

August 26, 2010

Friends are concerned…

Filed under: Drilling, Finishing, Historical Material, Of Interest, Proper Tools, Turning, Wood — Stephen Shepherd @ 6:05 am

that my focus lately on making weapons is out of character.  I am basically a non violent person, I think killing is wrong and I have never been in a physical fight.  Although I have no problem assailing people verbally I never take it to the next level.  However I do seem to have and make a lot of personal protection devices.

So after a friend told me of a cudgel enhanced with hob nails, I decided to put a few to good use.  Turned of hard maple, I had to pre-drill the holes for the hobnails.  It is finished with a coat of linseed oil/turpentine.

No more mollycoddling those sensitive types.

Stephen

August 1, 2010

Tallow, Lard and Bear Fat

 

Once again I am spurred to make these comments because of more silliness on a woodworking forum on the Internet.  Someone asked if anyone made their own tallow and everyone put down the simple request and went ‘modern’ even though the forum touts its archaic nature.  Instead of answering the question suggestions were made to use [laxative] mineral oil, paraffin oil (petroleum distillates), etc.

As many of you know, I am not interested in ‘modern, better, improved, new or recent’ methods, I do history and the book has already been written, we have a good idea of what was used in the nineteenth century and earlier and if we don’t then we can research the historical archives and find out.

And to the statement ‘if they would have had it, then they would have used it’, I say well they didn’t, so they couldn’t have used it, so I won’t be using it, or if I were a frog, then I would be a prince.  They seem to miss the point of traditional woodworking, using the proper tools, materials and techniques of the period in study.

Tallow is the internal fat (suet) surrounding the kidneys and intestines of sheep, goats, deer and oxen that is rendered down at a very low heat, just enough to cause the grease to melt away from the connective tissues.  While liquid it is filtered then allowed to cool when it is fit for use.

Lard is the rendered belly fat from pigs [Sus domestica] and is soluble in benzene, chloroform, ether, slightly in alcohol and insoluble in water, with a specific gravity of 0.917 at 77° (F), a dielectric constant of 2.1 at 176° (F) and melts at 97 to 107° (F).  A mixture of lard and beeswax fills the grease cup under the end of my workbench, that I use for screws and nails.

Bear fat, commonly called bear grease is the material rendered from the body fat of any species of bears [Ursus spp.], and was commonly used as a lubricant, lamp oil and to make the finest croissant, according to the French.

Tallow and bear fat have similar melting points, specific gravity, etc. to lard and work as a lubricant for metal and wood, a rust inhibitor for ferrous metals, for cooking, to protect leather, wood and other organic materials from moisture and as a lamp fuel for illumination.

I am certain many shops in the nineteenth century were illuminated with lard lamps, grease lamps and tallow candles.

Lard is readily available at any grocery store in containers ranging from one pound boxes to 5 gallon barrels and can be stored at room temperature and protected from light.  This is the material I use as it is the easiest to acquire and I am too lazy to make my own, although I have made it and tallow before and on one occasion I had the opportunity to remove the fat from a dead bear.  It was a mess, but my buckskins got a good coating of a traditional bear fat.  I can now purchase bear fat/oil from a local Native American Trading Post when it is available once a year.  Bear grease can be solid at colder temperatures or liquid when at warmer temperatures.

Many oils, fats and grease or other lipids can go rancid, which is the chemical decomposition of the material.  This caused the fats to have an undesirable odor and flavor.  Rancidity can be caused by water splitting fatty acid chains from the glycerides, by oxygen when the double bonds of an unsaturated fatty acid react chemically with oxygen and finally by the enzymes of bacteria breaking down the structure of the fats.

As heat and light causes the fat/oil/tallow to go rancid, rendering at low temperatures, storing in a cool, dry and dark environment will prolong its usable life.  But the whole rancid question really doesn’t pertain to using the stuff on wood or metal.  I don’t lick my tools that often and there is such a small amount that it is not unpleasant on the nose.  I for one happen to like the taste of rancid peanuts, any odor from my boots and shoes isn’t caused by the lard I slather on, the wooden plate I eat from regularly, while it was finished with walnut oil, its top coat is grease and I also have and use Buffalo Tallow lip balm.

Stephen

May 31, 2010

The Adventure continues

Filed under: Historical Material, Of Interest, Uncategorized, Wood — Stephen Shepherd @ 8:12 am

 

The adventure started out in an attempt to find the mythical Western Red Pine ended in not having access to the area, which will not be free of snow until about the fourth of July.  But all was not in vain.  After talking with a Park Ranger first he laughed when I told him where we wanted to go, he informed us that it was still covered in deep snow.  When I told him what we were looking for, he summoned the National Forest Service Forester and assured us that she knew her trees.

A nice lady [Sir George was able to determine she was from New York, although she lost most of her eastern accent] and explained that we were looking for ‘Red Pine’.  ‘Doesn’t exist out here!’   She said that it was Douglas fir [Psuedotsuga taxifolia] that people called red pine and didn’t know the difference.  I explained to her that people now may have not known the difference, but the pioneers did and I sited some historic sources backing up my claim.  At this point she realized that I probably knew what I was talking about.

Then she pointed out the 130 year old Black Willow [Salix nigra] trees across the street that were planted by the pioneers of that area and was originally brought from Nauvoo Illinois when they came west in the mid nineteenth century.  She had a hardwood expert come in and evaluate the trees, at first skeptical when hearing of black willow that old, it wasn’t until he saw the trees that he believed that they were 130 years old.  Black willow seldom survives over 100 years.  The western climate seemed to be ideal for their long life. 

By the time we left she said that she was going to start looking for Red Pine and will keep in touch.  She also pointed out that while most of the people think the conifer forest are made up of pine trees, most of the ‘pine’ trees were actually Engelmann Spruce [Picea engelmannii].  She also said that while people call the other trees cedars they are all Junipers [Juniperus spp.].  She works with school groups, so hopefully in the future people may know the difference.

Speaking of pine she said they were hard to find and pointed out two Ponderosa pines [Pinus ponderosa] planted in the parking lot of the ranger station, to show people what the pines actually look like.  She said that the only pines you could find in the remote areas are Bristlecone pines [Pinus aristata].  She pointed out on the map the remote location where they grow.  So jokingly I said ‘well then you don’t mind if I cut some down?’  To wit she replied ‘if it standing dead and you have a $20.00 firewood permit you can cut down all you want if they are shorter than 4 feet.  Longer pieces require a ‘pole permit’ which cost a bit more money.

I was flabbergasted at that comment thinking they were all protected, not the case here.  She said that it is very remote and no one goes there but there are standing dead.  She also described how I could identify those even if dead, they grow different in this area and are not as windblown as most Bristlecone pines in other areas show.

So when the weather improves we will venture forth again in search of both the mythical Red Pine and with a saw and ax the legendary Bristlecone Pine.

Stephen

May 28, 2010

High Adventure in search of a mythical tree

Filed under: Historical Material, Of Interest, Uncategorized, Wood — Stephen Shepherd @ 6:34 am

 

In search of the mythical Western Red Pine continued yesterday with an excursion down south to the Manti La Sal National Forest to find the tree that everyone but me today seems to think is a myth.  Well that is not quite true all of the authorities that I have talked to as well as historians of the West believe that what the pioneers referred to as Red Pine was Douglas fir and the pioneers didn’t know the difference.  Hogwash.

I have worked on old pieces of pioneer furniture that was made of red pine, and after 40 years I know the difference between pine and fir.  I know most of the conifers, in wood and in tree form.  I even have corroborating evidence that the pioneers knew the difference as well.  Printed newspaper ads requesting white pine, for the flooring, fir and red pine for the supporting structures of a bridge built in Great Salt Lake City in the early 1850’s.

Botanical references have not included red pine since the late 1890’s, and this is not to be confused with the red pine [Pinus rubra] found in the eastern United States.  Form a dated chair ‘Public Works, GSL City, 1856’ shows sylvan characteristics unlike any other tree, the seat of a Windsor arm chair, painted and grained to imitate mahogany with gold stripes had the traditional bevels to the side of the seat to make it look thinner was actually the wane of the tree and included bark that was smoothed down and painted.  The underside of the chair was not painted, except for the stencil and had 22 sapwood rings and 88 heartwood rings.

So what happened to the red pine?  Good question, perhaps it met the fate of the Western White Pine which was destroyed by a blight, all of the white pine trees left in Utah were imported from the Black Hills about 60 years ago.  Brigham Young told the Pioneers ‘not to cut red pine for firewood, that it should only be used for furniture and building’.  There are several ‘Red Pine Canyons’ in the state but no red pine.  All of the Red Pine Canyons are on the north sides of mountain ranges with southern exposures.

Two years ago I did some consulting for the Museum of Church History and Art for the Mormon Church on the proper construction of a couple of large bents that were reconstructed in the museum to keynote the restoration project of the LDS Tabernacle.  Some of the scissor trusses [Israel Town’s patent called the Remington truss] and long beams needed to be replaced.  Some of the wood was used in the recreation of the structure of the roof in the museum exhibit.  As a result I was given a piece from the tabernacle’s original wood, it measured 3 inches thick by 12 inches wide and 36 inches long.  I got to select the piece and of course I took the red one, there were some of Douglas fir pieces as well, easy to tell the difference.  This piece also has a knot with some included bark [a dark red color].  The red pine is named for its bark but the wood is also a strong red color.

I have made a couple of walking sticks [canes], writing pens, knitting needles and tatting shuttles from the wood, I keep even the smallest of pieces of this precious wood.  It is a real pleasure to work and doesn’t behave like modern pines although it works like sugar pine but is harder.

This will have to be in two parts because the discussion I had with the National Forest Service Forester during this adventure made the trip a success, although I didn’t think the area would be inaccessible due to weather.  The place where I wanted to go will not be free of snow and open until July 4th.  Another trip is already in the planning stages.

 These aspen trees are on the open part of the Skyline Loop road at about 9000 feet and you can see how the winter snow has effected how these threes grow.

This is Sir George trying to get a reading on his camera at 9400 feet, and yes the wind was howling.

 

Here is one of my walking sticks made of Red pine.

More on the adventure later.

Stephen

July 28, 2009

The advantage of air dried wood

I suppose I should say the advantages, because there are several.  And this of course is in comparison to kiln or artificially dried wood.  During the nineteenth century and earlier all wood was air dried, the technology didn’t exist because it wasn’t needed.

Air dried wood was used when there was time for it to dry.  The standard is one year for every inch of thickness for hardwoods and a few months less for softwoods.  Of course this can change depending on temperature and humidity.  I have air dried one inch thick spruce and pine in less than 6 months.

Kiln dried wood was needed for the new balloon framing that became popular for house construction starting in the 1830’s.  Prior to that time the nature of the structures were such that it didn’t matter if the wood was dry and the builders took that into consideration when the buildings were built.

Most things were built with green wood, from log cabins, timber frames to legs and spindles on chairs, spinning wheels, there just wasn’t time nor a good reason to wait.  Green wood is much easier to work than dry wood, even air dried wood.  I have hewn green white oak and it works like dried pine, I would not attempt to hew dry oak, it would be possible but it would be a lot of work.

Working kiln dry wood makes shavings that are full of static electricity and stick to everything.  Green wood does not have the same static cling.  Air dried wood sometimes has static cling but not as much as artificially dried wood.  Air dried wood also works better, it stands up better under a chisel and tends to have more uniform firmness than wood that is speed dried.

When wood is heated above 185 degrees (F), fatty acids in the lignin change, harden and can not be altered from that more rigid state.  This produces wood that is harder and more brittle than wood that has dried naturally.  There can also be casehardening to the outside of the wood forming a refractory surface.  These can be a problem for working with tools, gluing with Hide Glue and can effect stains and finishes.

Wood when green contains both free water within the fibers of the cellulose and bound water which is within the cells themselves.  As the wood dries naturally (air dry) the bound water replaces the free water as it evaporates slowly from the wood.  As this happens the wood shrinks, more across or around the grain and not much at all in its length.  A board will get somewhat narrower but only its loss of length is insignificant.  When wood is artificially dried the water leaves quickly causing cell rupture and collapse.

The above illustration shows how wood seasons depending upon where it was cut from the tree.  Being aware of how wood seasons the craftsman would choose the proper cut of wood for the proper application.  Quarter sawn wood used for table tops and panels help maintain flat boards even if cut from unseasoned wood.

Today is is difficult to obtain air dried wood, almost everything is kiln dried.  In order to get the stuff, most times you have to dry it yourself.  It is indeed unfortunate that wood suppliers don’t offer an alternative to kiln dried woods.  When I get an opportunity to use air dried woods, I get a better idea of how woodwork was done in the nineteenth century and earlier.  The same applies to green (unseasoned) wood as its working characteristics are much different.

Stephen

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