Based on an old recipe (c 1804) this is real soap [not a detergent bar] and contains NO modern ingredients, phosphates, or petroleum distillates. After trying a couple of recipes, the lard and castor oil example was excellent and did not dry out my hands using it over the winter. After getting my hands on some rosin, I had a batch of soap made to the old recipe and the stuff is great.
Not only does it not dry out your hands, it lathers well and is long lasting. The rosin gives the soap a delightful fragrance, adds hardness to the soap and it is derived from trees, what could be better? It lubricates sticky drawer parts and other wooden moving parts [such as the tension block of spinning wheels].
It can also be used to practice carving and you can clean up with the shavings.
Made of lard, castor oil, rosin, distilled water and lye, all from renewable natural resources.
Available in the Full Chisel Store and ready for immediate shipment you can buy it here.
Thanks to Mark Schramm, master blacksmith and soap maker for making this soap for me to use and sell.
Traditional Craftsman’s Lye Soap with Rosin.
This stuff use to be available when tools and mills were powered by flat leather belts, jack shafts, and flywheels. It keeps the belt tracking properly [providing the wheels are coplanar] and prevents the belt from slipping.
Works great on Foot Powered Treadle Lathes, sewing machine belts and drive bands on Spinning Wheels. Based on an old formula this stuff is very sticky, it sticks to silicone, teflon and high molecular plastic, etc. etc.
The perforated paper tube keeps it from sticking to your fingers and can be peeled back as the belt dressing is used up.
And it is for sale at The Full Chisel Store.
*that should read ‘Do you have rosin?’
According to the 1930 edition of Merck’s Index:
Colophony; Abietic Anhydride; Yellow Rosin; Resina, B.P.-Res. left on distil. volat. oil fr. oleoresin obt. fr. Pinus palustris & o. spec. of Pinus, Pinaceæ. – Occur.:Rosin is chiefly supplied by the U.S. – Sol.: Freely in A., B., E., glac.acet. acid, oils, & soluts. of fixed alkali hydroxides. U.S.P. also in CS2. – Sp. Gr.: 1.07 – 1.09 at 25°C., U.S.P. – Constit.: Chiefly (80%-90%) abietic acid, or its anhydride resene (5%-6%, B.P.C.).; also pinic & sylvic acids – Uses: Pharm., as ingred. in oints, plasters, cerates, &c. – Techn., manuf. varnishes, varnish & paint driers, printing inks, cements, soap, sealing wax, wood polish, floor coverings, paper, plastics, fireworks, tree wax, sizes; f. waterproofing cardboard, walls, etc., & as source of rosin spirit & rosin oil, & pitch.
It is available by the pound at the Full Chisel Store, here.
This term comes from the upholstery trade; brass tacks are the finishing touch and final job of an upholstered chair, settee, sofa, lounge, etc. as well as leather covered trunks. So ‘getting down to brass tacks’ is the last part of the job.
Here is a link to the website selling decent traditional brass tacks. This link shows about the brass tacks.
My artwork [above] from 1994 was used by the site, I contacted the owner, proved I did the art and he sent me these tacks. While they are not completely accurate, the originals were cast one piece, these brass tacks are the best available on the market. They do pass the magnet test, which is a way to determine if the shanks are iron or steel.
If you are making 19th century accurate reproductions such as leather covered trunks, an upholstered piece of furniture or a brass tack knife sheath [the clinch looks correct] these tacks fit the bill. I highly recommend them.
If you own a Canadian Pattern Spinning Wheel you know what I mean, as for the rest of you, it is not what you think. Size 5/16″ by 18.
See Full Chisel Store.
Just need to put the finish [walnut oil] on this lignum vitae lace drop spindle and it will be ready to go to its new owner, if it is not too heavy. The first picture I weighed the rough turning and it weighed 2.75 ounces. The flash on the camera was used on the first photograph.
After I drilled the hole for the iron wire hook, I cut off the ends and the overall weight is 1.45 ounces. I like the bamboo motif on the shank and the bell shape at the bottom. Hook prepared with garlic and glued in with Fish Glue. Natural light was used in the photograph below, still getting use to my new camera.
I also have a couple of lignum vitae whorls for larger drop spindles in the works.
Hardware for the 1805 Turning Bench has been difficult for those people building this treadle lathe to find, so after repeated requests I am pleased to offer the complete hardware package for sale at a very reasonable price.
The hardware made to the specifications of the plans and include the headstock mandrel with a slight variation from the old plans, newer sets of plans will include the change. The center part of the mandrel is 1 1/8″ in diameter; 1″ on the original, this change gives a shoulder for the bearings.
The flywheel crank is as specified on the plans and can be keyed to secure on the wheel and is 3/4″ in diameter.
The tailstock crank and locking nut are also the same as on the plans and the square nut is inlet into the wood of the tailstock to prevent it from turning.
Now people will be able to easily complete their own foot powered treadle lathe with this quality hardware. You can order it from the Full Chisel Store.
I have had experience with casting pewter into or onto wood; back in 1972 I built a halfstock flintlock rifle and pistol and both had pewter endcaps cast on the end of the maple gunstocks. So I had every confidence that this would be fairly easy.
The square mortise is undercut on all four edges, so the nut is captured in a dovetail in the maple endgrain of the whorl.
I had to borrow a casting ladle from a friend then melt down some pewter on the stove. After the pewter was melted I put a rice grain size piece of beeswax into the hot metal to flux out any impurities, then used a wooden stick to remove the dross floating on the surface.
A dam of thick cardboard protects the maple of the whorl and adds thickness to the nut. I cast the nut onto the shaft [with left hand threads], so the threads are cast into the pewter nut. I heated up the shaft so as not to shock the hot pewter as it is being poured.
With a hacksaw I removed the excess and smoothed it down with a file, then gave it a bit of burnish. Spinning Wheel parts available here.
Just posting a picture to show the progress of the first order. The customer opted for 2 additional bobbins [saved shipping costs] to bring the total to three. Still waiting for the machinist to finish up the mandrel, then fitting it up and installing the hooks.
The three shafts for the bobbins can not be turned until the mandrel arrives for proper sizing of their length.
I am going to cut the square mortise in the whorl a bit deeper and will be casting the pewter nut on the mandrel for a perfect match, will post pictures of this when it happens. First post on grain orientation. Parts may be ordered here.
Here is the second prototype of the Spinning Wheel mandrel, flyer, whorl, and bobbin made to fit a wheel I need to restore. The first flyer was for a friend’s wheel which I will be restoring as well. They are different size as are all flyers.
My flyer is an inch shorter than the other flyer, below is a picture to compare the sizes and both U-shape and V-shape flyers.
Because all flyers are unique and will be custom built to each particular spinning wheel, there is an important measurement that must be provided so the flyers will work properly on the wheel. See illustration below.
Measurement is taken between the two [leather] bearings on the maidens on the mother-of-all.
You can order your new flyer at the Full Chisel Store.