I am offering a pre-publication sale on the Spinning Wheel Repair Book which is going to the press soon. I will be delivering these by the first week of December 2014.
Here is a mock up of the cover, color being added as we speak, original artwork by Tim Burnham.
For the first 25 orders I will include an 8.5″ by 11″ hand impressed copy of the hand set title page by Lauri Taylor of Loose Cannon Press, along with your order.
The book is 8.5″ by 11″, 77 pages with 160 illustrations and 25 photographs.
The book can be ordered here at the Full Chisel Store, the price is $20.00 plus $6.00 domestic shipping. International shipping charges apply. The book will be shipped by early December, 2014.
Thanks to all of those who helped with this publication.
I can and do own a root burl war club, I own a Pueblo rabbit stick, I own a tomahawk, I own a bow and arrows, I own a 1842 Springfield musket, I own a 1848 Colt pocket pistol, I own a 1860 English double barrel 12 gauge shotgun, but I Can Not own a slingshot [county law]. Not sure about my David/Goliath sling?
I made this from maple to match the tapered octagonal handles of the rest of my shop tools, oak dowels are glued [fish glue] in to the ends of the forks. Natural gum rubber tubing, a piece of leather and linen thread to secure all the parts. It is finished with Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish.
However because it is illegal, I have not weaponized the flipper.
I initially posted this as ‘Bobbin Shaped Object‘, but I was wrong apparently there was a family that made bobbins this way, just not for CPW’s. so I borrowed an original CPW bobbin from a friend to copy. I did repair the broken bobbin.
I also finished the whorl repair, I used shellac and burnt umber pigment and was able to match the original finish.
I also applied a couple coats of Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish to the cherry bobbins and put them in the sun to give them a bit of a tan.
Also included in the order was a Chicken Nut, to finish out the restoration. I put it in the post this morning.
A customer sent me a flyer, whorl, and ‘bobbin’ for repairs to the whorl and requested three  new bobbins for her Canadian Production Wheel. When I received it in the mail, I took off the whorl [it has left hand threads] and the ‘bobbin’ came apart like no other bobbin I had ever seen before and you can believe I have seen a lot of bobbins.
As you can see from the picture the center shaft of the bobbin is butt joined to the pulley end rather than the traditional round socket holes and tenons on both ends? I found this very curious and thought that whoever sold the wheel put this ‘bobbin shaped object’ in place in order to sell the wheel. I notified the owner, who contacted the seller, who got in touch with me.
Apparently the seller had purchased it from a known collector on the East coast and had made sure the wheel was functional and did not notice the suspect bobbin prior to selling it to my customer.
I am convinced it was not done to deceive and I think everything is smoothed out with the seller [who wants me to do some work for them] and the project progresses. I contacted a local friend and she lent me an original CPW bobbin to copy, so the new ones will look right and are constructed using original techniques.
You can see the chip in the whorl in the above photograph. I marked out a dovetail Dutchman repair on the whorl, then using a small sharp knife cut the end grain birch to the right shape.
I then cut a piece of end grain birch to fit into the dovetail and glued it in with Fish Glue.
After the glue dried I shaped it to match the original whorl.
I will stain it to match the original color.
Here is the first of three bobbins, I still have to glue them together and finish them with Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish. The bobbins are made out of cherry and I will put them in the sun for a tan, no stain.
I have completed the new mother of all and spindle for the spinning wheel from Florida, time to pack it up and ship it home.
The flange and power pulley are turned of maple, then fit and the pulley turned to its final dimension. The metal spindle from master blacksmith Mark Schramm was roughened up where the flange and pulley are attached, then washed with alcohol and etched with a fresh clove of garlic. I used Fish Glue to attach them together.
With the parts all turned up and fit, I drilled the holes for the braided corn husk bearings and started the finish schedule. The first coat is yellow ocher in Moses T’s St. John’s Oil followed by a sealing coat of burnt umber and shellac.
Then a coat of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil with burnt umber, then a thin seal coat of straight shellac.
The last color is of course black iron oxide in Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and allowed to dry. Both the Birch and reclaimed Chestnut match the original color now.
Ready to pack up and ship.
With a couple in the queue, so I need to get busy. Here is one I just recently completed, a kit wheel, very well made in the style of the 1850’s. It was in need of lubrication, a tune up and a new drive band. The customer also ordered 5 additional bobbins for hours of uninterrupted spinning.
The bobbins are made of cherry, glued together with hide glue and finished with Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish. The weather has turned nice so I put them out for a bit of a suntan. I will not stain them as they will darken with time.
A quick job came in the shop, a request for two additional bobbins for a Canadian Production Spinning Wheel. Also made a peg to hold the crank and provided a ‘chicken nut’ and bolt for the clam shell tension mechanism.
The first coat was a mixture of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and red iron oxide and yellow ocher. I allowed this to dry overnight, then a light sanding.
I then sealed it with shellac followed by a coat of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and burnt umber. The weather was so nice I put them outside to dry.
Then a thin coat of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and black iron oxide. Turned out fine and the customer was happy.
One more thing regarding the Black Beauty spinning wheel restoration, the owner decided she wanted a lazy kate for her wheel as it had the existing upright which from its design was not for a distaff but to hold extra bobbins on the wheel.
I got a rough sketch with the dimensions for the spacing of the iron bars [courtesy Mark Schramm] and did a drawing for the turning.
I then drilled holes, upset some burrs on the ends of the iron rods, washed them down with alcohol, then etched with a fresh clove of garlic and used Fish Glue to hold them in place.
The birch turning was then stained using Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and burnt umber pigment and allowed to dry overnight. Next was shellac with black iron oxide for the final finish.
I will have the owner shoot a picture of the complete wheel and post it later.
While I have restored probably well over 100 spinning wheels, this is my first double table spinning wheel restoration. Of Scandinavian origins this wheel is a close match to this one featured on a Catalogue from a local Daughter’s of the Utah Pioneer Museum.
Sometime during its history the original pitman was replaced with a homemade folk art replacement. I do think because the pitman was rigid that it caused damage to the two uprights holding the wheel; the sockets in the lower table were both broken. These were easy to repair as all of the parts and pieces were there, so using Fish Glue I filled the joints, clamped them and washed off the excess glue with a wet cloth.
There was an interesting piece of wood in one of the maidens, apparently to keep the flyer in place. I had to remove this when the proper sized spindle, flyer, whorl, and bobbin were added.
The treadle also needed some repair as the end where the pitman is attached had a piece missing. I shaped a new piece and glued it into place.
I also had to make new leather bearings for the maidens; first a paper pattern to fit the mortise and the leather bearing. This is for a new spindle, flyer, whorl and bobbin that replaced the missing set.
I replaced the pitman with one influenced by the one on the original in the local museum.
The drive band is hemp cord that I washed, stretched, and allowed to dry. I then treated it with Drive Belt Dressing.
Here are two views of the finished restoration. This one belongs to a friend of mine who purchased it for $35.00 at a local swap meet and now that it is restored he intends to put it up for sale.
The walking wheel spindle head repair is complete and now that I have a proper size mailing box I will put it into the post soon. Here is the first part, and here is the second part.This is the small pulley repair with its first coat of stain to match the original.
This is the pulley with the final stain and ready for the installation of the whorl, end, or flange of the iron spindle. I first roughened up the area where the whorl will be fixed, then I washed it down with alcohol and etch the metal and the inside of the maple whorl with a fresh clove of garlic. It is attached with Fish Glue.
The whorl glued in place with its first coat of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and yellow ocher dry powdered pigment. I allowed 24 hours to dry before moving on to the next step.
A coat of thinned shellac and a coat of burnt umber dry powdered pigment with a bit of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil.
Another thin coat of shellac then some Oil with black iron oxide which was allowed to dry overnight. The final coat was thin shellac.
I had prepared the braided corn husks for the bearings and attached them with hemp string. I will include a couple extra braided corn shuck bearings for future replacement when and if necessary. I also included a hemp drive band treated with Drive Belt Dressing.