Full Chisel Blog

March 18, 2014

Lazy Kate

One more thing regarding the Black Beauty spinning wheel restoration, the owner decided she wanted a lazy kate for her wheel as it had the existing upright which from its design was not for a distaff but to hold extra bobbins on the wheel.

lazy kate

I got a rough sketch with the dimensions for the spacing of the iron bars [courtesy Mark Schramm] and did a drawing for the turning.

I then drilled holes, upset some burrs on the ends of the iron rods, washed them down with alcohol, then etched with a fresh clove of garlic and used Fish Glue to hold them in place.

lazy kate1

The birch turning was then stained using Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and burnt umber pigment and allowed to dry overnight.  Next was shellac with black iron oxide for the final finish.

lazy kate2

I will have the owner shoot a picture of the complete wheel and post it later.

Stephen

March 3, 2014

Walking Wheel Spindle Head Repair III

The walking wheel spindle head repair is complete and now that I have a proper size mailing box I will put it into the post soon.  Here is the first part, and here is the second part.spindle head12This is the small pulley repair with its first coat of stain to match the original.

spindle head3a

This is the pulley with the final stain and ready for the installation of the whorl, end, or flange of the iron spindle.  I first roughened up the area where the whorl will be fixed, then I washed it down with alcohol and etch the metal and the inside of the maple whorl with a fresh clove of garlic.  It is attached with Fish Glue.

spindle head7a

The whorl glued in place with its first coat of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and yellow ocher dry powdered pigment.  I allowed 24 hours to dry before moving on to the next step.

spindle head7b

A coat of thinned shellac and a coat of burnt umber dry powdered pigment with a bit of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil.

spindle head13

Another thin coat of shellac then some Oil with black iron oxide which was allowed to dry overnight.  The final coat was thin shellac.

spindle head14

I had prepared the braided corn husks for the bearings and attached them with hemp string.  I will include a couple extra braided corn shuck bearings for future replacement when and if necessary.  I also included a hemp drive band treated with Drive Belt Dressing.

Job done.

Stephen

 

February 19, 2014

Walking Wheel Spindle Head Repair II

I started talking about this restoration here.   I made a drawing for making a new maple whorl [head or flange] on the spindle.spindle head4

This is the whorl temporarly fit to the metal spindle, I will later roughen the spindle slightly, etch with garlic and glue in place with Fish Glue.  spindle head7

Here is what the mother-of-all looked like when it arrived, I discussed replacing the obviously newer maiden with a proper one.  My client said that would be fine but insisted as much of the original should be maintained, music to my ears.

spindle head1

Here is the new replacement in birch to match the original.

spindle head6

In order to get the finish to match the original it took several steps, the first is a mixture of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and yellow ocher dry powdered pigment.

spindle head9

The next step is a coat of shellac with some burnt umber dry powdered pigment.

spindle head10

Then a bit of black iron oxide dry powdered pigment with shellac to get near the final color.

spindle head11

Then some abrasion of the shiny finish and a coat of wood ashes makes it a good match to the original, there is no way to do this in one step to match the old finishes.

Here is the damaged pulley on the shaft together with the replacement part and the pattern that matches what is remaining on the original.

spindle head8

Having fit up the two pieces, I etched them with garlic and glued them in place with Fish Glue.  It was impossible to clamp so I held it in my hands for 10 minutes then set it aside to cure.  A little work with a chisel and I gave it a coat of shellac with burnt umber pigment.  I will add a bit of black later.

spindle head12

I still need to braid up a couple of corn shuck bearings and tie them onto the maidens.  This is an unusual method of attaching the bearings, most are secured through a hole and fixed with a wedge.

spindle head5

I was able to fit the pieces back together to determine just how they were tied on.  This job is nearly complete.

Stephen

 

February 1, 2014

Walking Wheel Spindle Head restoration

After discussing the work via email, the owner sent me the mother-of-all for a walking wheel [wool wheel, or spindle wheel] for restoration.  It is an unusual spindle in that the corn shuck bearings are tied to the maidens, rather than being fixed through a hole with wedges.  It was missing the whorl [head or flange], the small pulley was damaged and one of the maidens was a replacement.

spindle head1

Here is a drawing of what the whorl will look like.

spindle head4

The owner insisted that the pulley be repaired rather than replaced, a person after my own heart, so turned up a piece that can be cut up for the repairs to the pulley.

spindle head2

spindle head3

Should be a fun little restoration project especially that tiny repair to the pulley.

Stephen

 

 

January 17, 2014

Lace Drop Spindle

Just need to put the finish [walnut oil] on this lignum vitae lace drop spindle and it will be ready to go to its new owner, if it is not too heavy.  The first picture I weighed the rough turning and it weighed 2.75 ounces.  The flash on the camera was used on the first photograph.

lace spindle1

After I drilled the hole for the iron wire hook, I cut off the ends and the overall weight is 1.45 ounces.  I like the bamboo motif on the shank and the bell shape at the bottom.  Hook prepared with garlic and glued in with Fish Glue.  Natural light was used in the photograph below, still getting use to my new camera.

lace spindle2

I also have a couple of lignum vitae whorls for larger drop spindles in the works.

Stephen

November 27, 2013

Spinning Wheel leg[s] repair

This is a wheel I have been working on for a while, it is a painted lady, base coat of green paint followed by a coat of black paint and lots of grease [lanolin] on some parts.  It had suffered from powder post beetle infestation and the bottoms of the legs were in bad shape.  The legs and other parts are made from beech.

I needed to replace a large part of one leg and add on to the other two legs.  The long repair took place after I removed the damaged portion of the leg, this included the hole where the treadle axle pivots.  The damaged axles had rinded out the pivot hole and will require replacement and repair, this I will show in a later post.

I posted about the turned leg part here.  Here is the photograph of the cut being made; the turned leg is held in V-blocks held in my patternmaker’s vice.

leg repair1

I actually got a fairly square cut considering I was eye-balling the cut, it took just a little work with a chisel to get a good joint.

leg repair2

There is still some worm damage in the leg but the wood is not as punky as the lower part of the leg.

I used the V-blocks to hold the leg upright so I could drill a 1/2″ hole down the center {I wish I had my new doweling jig}, using my Fray & Pigg coachmaker’s brace.  I eye-balled the hole by sighting down at 90 degree angles.

leg repair3

Then a little chisel work and it came out fine.

leg repair4

The replacement part is extra long and will be cut off later.

 

leg repair5

When gluing up some of the Fish Glue came out one of the worm holes.  Also note that the new part is a bit proud.

leg repair6

I took care of the proud part of the new turning with a chisel, it was easy working down the grain, I smoothed off the chisel marks with a card scraper.  I will do a bit of sanding before painting, which I will do when all repairs have been made.

leg repair7

I used my miter block to cut off the damaged ends of the other legs and will scarf on new pieces of beech on the bottom of each leg, the angle worked out at 45 degrees.  If you look closely you can see the thin wafer of wood I removed to get to sound wood.  Note the rinded out axle hole from the treadle.

leg repair8

This photo shows how the scarf joint will look, the piece is longer than it needs to be.

More later.

Stephen

 

November 18, 2013

Turned my Peg Board into a finish drying rack

I made this several years ago for clamping odd shaped object using pegs and wedges for tension.  I also have a couple of threaded pegs that allow screw pressure.  I have used it for restoration and repair work as well.  It is 16 1/2″ wide, 36″ long and 1 1/2″ thick yellow poplar with one inch holes spaced over the surface.  I can also use holdfasts in any of the holes.

Recently after finishing with Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish some curved stretchers for a table I am working on for a friend, I needed somewhere to place the pieces for the finish to dry with good air circulation.  So I stuck a couple of 1 inch dowels into the holes and they worked to hold the pieces spaced apart.  The weight of the pegboard was sufficient to hold the weight of the stretchers, even set out on the ends of the dowels.

pegboard

An already handy tool has a new ability as a drying rack.

Stephen

November 4, 2013

Repairing worm damage on Spinning Wheel leg

This European spinning wheel has seen a lot of use and some neglect over the years; the current owner is interested in having her [I think all spinning wheels are female, I could be wrong] put in good working order.  Already have made two additional bobbins to match the original, now some work on the structure itself.

tm wheel

The original leg is marked with a white pencil where it will be cut off to receive the new foot.

Made of beech the legs have some wear to them, I will scarf on some beech on the other two feet of the legs; however on one leg the damage and wear is too great and must be replaced.  I will use hide glue to attach the new foot after I drill the hole for the tenon.  [I wish I had my new doweling jig!]  Once it is in place I will determine the proper height and cut it off and drill a new hole for the foot treadle axle.

The original is painted green then black and the new part will be painted to match.

Stephen

October 7, 2013

Spinning Wheel Flyer – grain orientation

This is my first order for a custom made spinning wheel flyer, mandrel, whorl, and bobbin[s] for an existing wheel.  The owner sent photographs with a measuring tape and confirmation of the distance between the leather bearings.  They can be ordered here.

first order flyer3

While it may look like this is just using up some useless scraps of maple with nasty knots, this wood was chosen because of the knot and the way the grain runs in the board.  The grain runs around the knot in such a way as to follow the pattern of the U shape of the flyer.  It is also a great use for useless scraps.

first order flyer4

The wood, in this case hard maple, for any flyer should be flat sawn and not quartersawn for proper grain orientation for maximum strength; no short grain as would be presented if the board was quartersawn.

first order flyer5

A hole for the mandrel is drilled in the end of the board, a corresponding hole is made in the opposite end, and are used to center the wood on the centers of the lathe.  Excess wood is first removed with a saw then it is turned on the lathe.  This can be a harrowing experience as the flat board flies past ones knuckles at an alarming and distracting manner.

first order flyer6

Because of the unusual grain around a knot the finished flyer off the lathe has some nasty splits along a couple of edges, but because the ends of the flyer are tapered thinner, this can be ‘easily’ planed off, then scraped with a card scraper.

first order flyer7

After raising the grain with water, I scraped it again and it is ready for the mandrel being made by a machinist friend of mine.  Now it is on to making the hooks and the soft metal nut in the whorl.

Stephen

September 8, 2013

New Spinning Wheel Mandrel, Flyer, Shaft, and Bobbin.

At last I got the entire prototype built and dry assembled and it functions as expected.  The first photograph shows the two shapes I will offer, both U-shape and V-shape flyers.  The flyers, whorl and mandrel vary slightly with each wheel and each complete unit is made to fit existing wheels where these are missing.  A simple measurement between the leather bearings is provided and the assembly is custom made to fit.

new flyer3

The second photograph shows one prototype finished, I am working on the second whorl, the mandrel, and flyer are done and fitted together.  I will roughen up the surface of the metal, wash it with soap and water, then alcohol before etching with garlic.  I will use hot hide glue to attach them together.

new flyer2

The mortise in the flyer is not that easy to make as it is endgrain and the unusual shape of the mandrel makes this a challenge.  I used charcoal to cover the mandrel, which transfers to the mortise to show where wood needs to be removed.  I don’t use graphite as that will interfere with the glue and the charcoal will not.

Will have the pricing soon.

Stephen

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