I do have a reason to talk about Pen and Ink, in that I do make a fine quality Pen, but I don’t turn them and the finest Ink available. I make wooden pen nib holders as I have a supply of Mr. Joseph Gillotts fine patented steel nibs. I also make quill pens and there are some tricks that will let you make the finest quill pens and how to use them properly. It is easy, just takes a feather.

In the above illustration, I show how to properly prepare a goose quill {the preferred quill for pens}, how to harden and finally how to sharpen.
A is a goose quill, from the right wing of a goose.
B is the quill that has been clipped to length.
C is the goose quill with the excess feathers removed. (The fancy feather quills you see in movies is Hollywood, no one ever really wrote with a fully feathered quill, a bit too unwieldy).
D is the quill as it looks after the feathers are removed, the end of the quill shaft is translucent.
E is the goose quill after it has been ‘hardened‘ in hot sand. I have a tin can with sand that is on the wood stove, when hot it will quickly turn the quill from translucent to opaque on the end. This is the most important part of quill making. How long it takes depends on how hot the sand is, so be careful as you can burn or singe the end of the quill. Keep checking and remove it after it has turned opaque on its end.
F is after the quill has been cut off, and it is squeezed to crack the quill (for the ink) and the opposite crack cut off. At this point you can determine which side of the quill you would like to use. It mostly depends upon what feels right or how the quill with its natural curve fits into your hand. Then choose which side to sharpen. When you squeeze the quill it will break on two sides, one break or crack is removed when sharpening the other side.
G is the second cut that brings the tip to near finish. These are carefully made with a sharp knife, a pen knife, I wonder where they got their name?
#1 is the first cut made to remove the opposite crack, made when the quill is squeezed and broken.
#2 shows the secondary cuts made to bring the width of the quill to the proper width. It is also important that each side of the split is uniform to make the proper width line. Of course you are cutting the quill so you can make it as coarse (wide) or fine (narrow) as you like. Also the longer the secondary cut the more flair you get as you write.
#3 shows the slight angle at which the end of the quill is trimmed depending if the user is left or right handed. See I told you there is nothing to it.
If you don’t harden the quill then it is too soft and too flexible to be a decent pen. The sharpening is important and each side of the crack needs to be the same. The crack is important as that is how the ink wicks down to the tip. There are old pen knives with guillotines in them to make the slit (crack) and pen knives can be used to cut the slit, but cracking the quill makes a more natural cleavage for the ink to travel to the surface of the paper. I have made wooden holders for goose quill nibs and have cut down goose quills for traveling pens.
As for penmanship, well that is another story, but when I first charge up my quill or steel nib pen, I usually use it upside down from how one would normally think of using an ink pen. This prevents those big blobs of ink from a fully charged pen soiling your document. Also when first charged if you hold it almost vertical when you start writing you will avoid the blob. It is also important to clean your pen after each use, but that will require further discussion.
Stephen

