and a couple of bellows boards for a bee smoker.
I managed to find enough chestnut to make the repairs on this American Spinning Wheel (the famous not a German Wheel). I turned up two missing spokes and this is the dry assembled piece. I also had to make tenons for all but one of the spokes. Spinning wheels usually only have their tenons on the hub side, the rim side is slip fit and held with pegs.
The above assembly is called a ‘speech’.
I had to repair some chips on the wheel itself, also made of chestnut. These two repairs are to the off side of the wheel and are aesthetic in nature, just to make the wheel look better. This damage would not interfere with the wheel operating properly.
I had to match the grain, remove the damage and make good gluing surfaces (Hide Glue of course) and cut the new pieces to match.
I have shaped some of the repairs, I did that with a small curved bottom bronze patternmaker’s spoke shave and shaped the outside with a 1/4 and 1/2 inch chisel. I will finish off the other two repairs on another day.
I also made three wire hooks for the flyer. I used piano wire (of which I have a great deal) for the hooks, cut and bent them to the proper shape.
The flyer is made of white oak and has seen some wear and has been repaired with soft wire twisted around the ends. It has a fracture that I need to deal with and I am going to remove the wire repairs. It is in good enough condition, and I always maintain as much of the original as possible, I am going to do repairs, first applying Hide Glue to the fractures and then by serving fine linen twine around the arms of the flyer (as soon as I make a serving mallet), followed by a coat or two of thin varnish. (By the way McCloskey’s Marine Spar Varnish has gone up to $60.00 a Gallon!).
While at the shop I made up a couple of bellows boards for a reproduction bee smoker that Mr. Lelegren over at Hot Dip Tin is making. It is a copy of one in a local museum. The large hole will have a leather flap valve allowing air to be sucked into the bellows and the small hole will have a small valve to allow air out of the bellows. The small hole was drilled with a 3/8″ Duck Billed Spoon Bit from Lee Valley, I used it to drill the hole to allow the coping saw blade to go through and cut the hole. I smoothed them up with a round file.
I ended up using my sawing jack upside down on the bench held with a hold fast. This is one of the few instances that I use a saw on the pull stroke, the saw being fit up with a coping saw blade.