Full Chisel Blog

July 9, 2012

Oak Sewing Machine Cabinet Repair

I now have two treadle sewing machines in my shop right now, so I need to get them finished to get my limited shop space back.  The other is walnut, this one is quarter sawn white oak veneer and solid white oak parts.

The top is in bad shape with some missing veneer.  I will harvest some of the veneer for repairs and replace it with new white oak veneer.  Because of the difference in older thicker veneers and modern ones, I might need to double up to get the desired thickness.

I cleaned out as best I could the dust, dirt, and old hide glue under the substrate and the veneer.  The lid is lumber core with substrates and veneers on both sides.  On the top on the front edge both the substrate and veneer were loose, so I wanted to repair them all at one time.

I used Lee Valley Fish Glue and a syringe to inject the glue under the substrate and veneer.  I used a thin pallet knife to spread the glue around.  I then used thick pieces of clear plastic [clamping blocks] and spring clamps to clamp it down.  I used two small C clamps to get the very end bit.   I wiped off the excess squeeze out and will allow it to dry.

I will repair the crack in the top tomorrow.


July 8, 2012

Donate to Support Full Chisel

Filed under: For Sale or Trade,Of Interest,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 8:40 am

I have had several requests from people who read this blog if they could donate to help support the Full Chisel Blog.  There is a link in The Full Chisel Store for making such contributions.


Thank you.


July 7, 2012

Chopping a Mortise like Roubo

On an English style Joyner’s bench by an American with a Japanese chisel.  Have I covered all the bases?  I was in need of a large 1 inch square mortise in my workbench to accommodate my new anvil.  After a discussion over at WoodCentral I decided to chop the mortise near the support leg of my workbench using the manner of Roubo pictured here.

Everything from the grip of the mallet to the grip on the chisel is how I did the mortise.  And while the stance pictured in the illustration may be good for shooting a rifle, it just doesn’t work for mortising.  I tried and I just didn’t have any balance, so I just widened my stance to the width of my shoulders and pounded away.  I laid out the mortise with a pencil and chopped it with my modified Japanese chisel and it took 15 minutes.

It was square, right next to the leg with blow out on the bottom.  But I didn’t take a picture of that because no one will ever see it anyway.  I think I will have to reevaluate the old engravings with a better eye as everything may not be correct.


July 5, 2012

A Brief History of Nails

Filed under: Hardware,Historical Material,Of Interest,Proper Tools,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 11:23 am


July 3, 2012

Moses T’s All Natural Wood Care Products – No Petroleum Distillates

I started making these finishes back in the mid-1970’s to fulfill my own needs, then because of customer demand I started packaging them for sale.  They are based on old formulations St. John’s Oil [A Satin Oil Finish] dates back to medieval times and Gunstocker’s Finish [High Gloss Finish] is from 1829 Ohio River Valley.

They are all natural made from renewable resources.  They are safe to use, but like all drying oil products the rags used to apply and remove must be disposed of properly to avoid spontaneous combustion.

Moses T’s Reviver, based on two old formula I had been using, I combined them producing my most popular product.  Reviver restores old finishes, removes water rings and water marks, softens paint splatters, restores cracked and crazed surfaces.

Moses T’s St. John’s Oil, this traditional oil formula dates back hundreds of years and is very similar to Danish Oil finishes but better.  A satin oil finish.

Moses T’s St. John’s Wax – the above oil with the addition of pure beeswax.  The oil penetrates the wood and dries offering protection.  The beeswax remains on the surface for wax protection and shine.

Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish, capable of a high gloss with repeated coats this formula contains, copal, sandarac, colophony and amber.  This is my most popular finish.

Moses T’s Oxyguard, is intended for raw metal or painted surfaces but works great on scratched plastic and oxidized vehicle finishes.  Will make foggy plastic lenses clear.

Moses T’s Leather Reviver, restores old dried out leather such as red rot.  It also consolidates and strengthens old leather and makes it flexible.

They are available in 4 ounce and 16 ounce size and can be ordered from the Full Chisel Store.


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