Full Chisel Blog

August 29, 2012

Lamb’s Tallow and Beeswax

Filed under: Alchemy,Drilling,Historical Material,Of Interest,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 10:40 am

I received a small can of pure lamb’s tallow from a friend at WoodCentral and finally got around to mixing up some tallow/beeswax mix for candles and my grease cup.  It is very high quality lamb’s tallow, very white in color.  I have talked of it before here.

I mixed it up with some beeswax to my secret formula [20% tallow/80% beeswax] for candles and I use the same stuff in my grease cup to lubricate nails and screws.  This small candle has been burning for an hour, should get 8 or 9 hours out of this one, my slightly larger ones burn for 12 to 14 hours.  I will make up some larger candles from my 12 gang mold when the weather cools.  I also have a secret formula for candle wicks [soaked in super saturated solution of borax to make them fireproof].

I also topped off my grease cup with the new mix.

A friend owns this original tallow box, made of Cuban Mahogany and stamped with the makers name.

The tallow is old, but has no odor, has yellowed in places but is still usable.

Tallow is great stuff and mixes well with beeswax for grease cups and other lubrication.

Stephen

August 27, 2012

Flocking – pseudo suede

I had never run into this in 40 years of doing restoration work and this is the first time for me to flock.  I asked some questions over at WoodCentral and got some good responses.  I then got an opportunity to talk with Michael Donaldson, son of a late friend of mine Dan Donaldson, when he was on a cross country car trip from Washington State to North Carolina.

He had experience with this, where I thought I could just pour the flocking on the adhesive and shake it around.  He said that he tried that and it didn’t work the only thing that works is the flocking tool.  So I popped the $8.00 for the flocking tool and am glad I did.

After reading and following all of the written and verbal instructions, I used masking tape to mask off the top of the drawer to keep the colored adhesive from sticking where I don’t want it sticking.

This is what the oak sewing machine drawer looked like with the adhesive freshly applied.

The masking tape is a good idea, as you only have 10-15 minutes open time on the adhesive, so I worked quickly and got some adhesive on the tape.  I removed the tape before applying the powdered flock.

And this is the view of the plastic lined box [to recover any unused flocking material] with the drawer after it is flocked.  The yellow tube is the flocker, simple be effective.  It needs to dry 48 hours before the excess flocking is removed.  And yes there is a lot of flocking as per instructions.

Stephen

 

August 21, 2012

Traditional Tanged Spokeshave Blades & Burn Augers

Filed under: Drilling,Historical Material,Of Interest,Proper Tools,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 4:43 pm

These are 10 blades plus one and two burn augers or more properly burn broaches as the holes will already be drilled.  The burn auger is heated up cherry red and thrust through the hole broaching a square tapered hole by burning.

These are for a class I will be teaching next month in Reno, Nevada for the Nevada WoodChucks.  I just found out I need two more blades for the class.  I also have them for sale in the Full Chisel Store.

Great blades, all uniform in size and hand forged by Mark Schramm, master blacksmith.

Looking forward to the trip to Nevada, met up with old friends and enjoy the local libation.  These workshops are a lot of fun, this one should be as well.

Stephen

August 17, 2012

Rare Yellow Tripoli – Rottenstone, Fossil Flour, Infusorial Earth, Fuller’s Earth, Diatomaceous Earth or Kieselguhr

This is one ounce of pure yellow Tripoli, or rottenstone, etc. etc.  The background card is a Kodak Neutral Grey Card for color correction.  It is a very light yellow color.  It is a filler for light colored woods, either a grain filler or thicker putty, it is also a traditional very fine abrasive, so use properly as it is an irritant.

Here is a bit of the Tripoli that has been moistened with water.  It has a light yellow color, much desired for filing light colored woods.  Also used to remove water soluble fatty acids from raw linseed oil.

I have a small amount of this stuff I have for sale, I will be selling it by the ounce.  It is $6.00 per ounce and $6.00 Shipping, domestic.  Full Chisel Store.

Stephen

 

August 9, 2012

Cloudy lens cover, oxidized paint, scratched helmut visor? Moses T’s Oxyguard

Filed under: Alchemy,Finishing,For Sale or Trade,Moses T's,Nautical,Of Interest,Restoration — Stephen Shepherd @ 10:55 am

Sounds strange on a Woodworking site, but this is one of Moses T’s All Natural Products I manufacture and sell.  I originally took an old formula and modified it to treat old painted surfaces and raw metal to prevent oxidation.  It also restored oxidized paint, removes scratches from plastic laminate and after a friend used it on automobiles he was restoring, it worked better than anything on the market.

Here are some before and after pictures.  Plastic headlamp lens covers are oxidized and cloudy.  An inexpensive solution to replacement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After one application of Moses T’s Oxyguard, put on wait 10 minutes and wipe off, allow to dry for 24 hours.  Dispose of oily rags properly.

A friend offered his car an an experimental test bed for Moses T’s Oxyguard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another friend had a motorcycle helmut and it was covered with scratches, he was going to buy another.  I took this and applied Moses T’s Oxyguard, waited 10 minutes and wiped off all the excess.  Cleared it right up.

A 4 ounce bottle is enough for one automobile, boat or small recreational vehicle and can be ordered here.

Stephen

August 3, 2012

Speaking of Shellac and French Polish

Filed under: Alchemy,Finishing,Furniture,Historical Material,Of Interest — Stephen Shepherd @ 11:53 am

Here is an interesting quote, I would like to thank Vic Hubbard for sending me part of this book:

‘Of course, the operator must always bear in mind, during the several operations, that care and cleanliness are two necessary factors, and without them, there can be no such thing as satisfactory results.  A slovenly workman should never attempt to polish, for no good can come from it.  In all my experience, which covers many years, I have never known of a careless or slovenly man making good work in this particular department.’

Fred T. Hodgson

Hodgson’s New Hardwood Finishing, Including Wood Manipulation Staining And Polishing

The publication was in the early 20th century.

Stephen

August 2, 2012

A Coat of Shellac

Filed under: Alchemy,Finishing,Furniture,Historical Material,Of Interest,Restoration,Techniques — Stephen Shepherd @ 9:24 am

Sometimes all that is needed is a coat of shellac and the case of the Oak Sewing Machine Cabinet is indeed one of those times.  Here is a picture of the applique on the small drawer front that was repaired here.

This is what it looked like after a coat of shellac.  I will need to do some additional touch ups.  The damage was caused by water.

Here is what the drawer sides looked like before and after just one coat.

I applied a small amount with a bristle brush and then use a dry brushing technique to imitate French Polish in the carved areas.  The original finish on the cabinet was shellac.

Stephen

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