Full Chisel Blog

November 12, 2008

Sticking without a Sticking Board

Filed under: Hand Planing,Of Interest,Restoration,Techniques,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 7:29 am

I was just too lazy to make a sticking board, I should make one some day but I so seldom do sash moldings.  However I need some, so I had to make it.

I set it up on the edge of my workbench, having removed the crochet from the front edge as it interfered with the fence on the rabbit plane.  The three holdfasts are holding the ‘clips’ I made on scraps of wood that hold the stick on the very edge of my workbench.

Stick1

I used a mortise gauge to mark the rabbit as well as the front to mark the narrow front edge of the sash molding.  The molding in the middle of the bench by the shavings is the finished profile.  What I noticed when I was planing both the rabbit and the front is that the score lines produced a bit of fuzz as the plane gets down to the line.  Interesting method of telling when you are done.

Stick fuzz

I made a couple of ‘clips’ to hold the molding by the rabbit once it was shot.  I also discovered that the clips hold the molding from the other side once it is formed, but there isn’t any reason to, unless the rabbits need to be worked on again.

Stick clip

I started out with a nail stop as the regular planing stop doesn’t work on the edge of my bench.  The nail was alright but bent and then was in the way.  So I removed it drilled a hole, made a countersink and inserted the screw.  It worked alright but the stick would occasionally not catch.  So I put some decorative notches around the top with a triangular file.  The end result was much better.  And when it is not in use it is screwed down to below the bench surface.  But handy, just unscrew to any height and it is ready to go.

Stick stop

While I usually don’t use metal planes, I did use this Stanley No. 289 to do the rabbits.  I also used a skew rabbit plane.  The wooden skew worked great but it needs to be reground as it has a nasty secondary bevel that just looks bad.

Rabbits

I am still unsure where my I. GREEN moving fillister plane is, it is in one of those boxes I have yet to unpack, or I would have used it instead of the Stanley.  But the Stanley does a good job.  One thing I did notice is that the nicker needs to be in the safe position so it doesn’t nick the board, as it is with the grain so not necessarily.  I started with the nicker out and found that it road over knots, the nicker lifting the plane at the hard spots.  Once the nicker was out of the way the plane worked just fine.

Stephen

 

4 Comments »

  1. Nicely done! I’ve yet to make a sticking board myself as I usually mold the edge of a wider board and then just rip it free when the molding is done. It’s great to be able to remove the crochet to have full access to the entire fron edge of the bench [I though you said it was a jam cleat and a crochet was on top of the bench ;)]. When I replaced my old metal vise with the wooden one, I gained this ability (to remove the vise) and it has been a hugh benefit. Just getting it out of the way is nice, even if I don’t need access to the front for a plane fence or the like. In fact, it’s off the bench more than it is on.

    Bob

    Comment by Bob Rozaieski — November 12, 2008 @ 7:52 am

  2. Bob,

    One is the arrest the other is the crochet. And now I am confused, but I think I call them the opposite of someone who wrote a book on workbenches calls them. I will have to check that out again. It is handy to be able to remove that thing on the front (I know it is at least called a jam cleat.) to have full access.

    I am going to make a removable face vise for dovetailing, don’t know if it will have two screws or one screw and one adjustable strap like in Roubo.

    Stephen

    Comment by Stephen Shepherd — November 12, 2008 @ 1:39 pm

  3. Yeah, just busting. I think I read somewhere that the one on the front of the bench is the arrest. My twin screw is removable and I like it. I actually have a plan to move it to the right side of the bench as in Moxon and add an arrest to the left side for edge jointing. I think it would be a lot more convenient and much faster to change board orientation. he vise would then mostly be used only for dovetailing and cutting tenon cheeks.

    Comment by Bob Rozaieski — November 12, 2008 @ 3:17 pm

  4. Bob,

    Yes, the arrest is on the front, what I called a jam cleat but like arrest better. The Crochet is the Catch. I thought of Moxon when deciding to add a simple face vise, but then recently saw an illustration in Roubo with a more center mounted vise. I can actually use the holes in my apron for the non movable vise face, so I just need a board to make the movable jaw. I have twin screws but the French version uses just one and an adjustable pivot on the other side.

    Stephen

    Comment by Stephen Shepherd — November 12, 2008 @ 5:12 pm

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