Full Chisel Blog

August 27, 2012

Flocking – pseudo suede

I had never run into this in 40 years of doing restoration work and this is the first time for me to flock.  I asked some questions over at WoodCentral and got some good responses.  I then got an opportunity to talk with Michael Donaldson, son of a late friend of mine Dan Donaldson, when he was on a cross country car trip from Washington State to North Carolina.

He had experience with this, where I thought I could just pour the flocking on the adhesive and shake it around.  He said that he tried that and it didn’t work the only thing that works is the flocking tool.  So I popped the $8.00 for the flocking tool and am glad I did.

After reading and following all of the written and verbal instructions, I used masking tape to mask off the top of the drawer to keep the colored adhesive from sticking where I don’t want it sticking.

This is what the oak sewing machine drawer looked like with the adhesive freshly applied.

The masking tape is a good idea, as you only have 10-15 minutes open time on the adhesive, so I worked quickly and got some adhesive on the tape.  I removed the tape before applying the powdered flock.

And this is the view of the plastic lined box [to recover any unused flocking material] with the drawer after it is flocked.  The yellow tube is the flocker, simple be effective.  It needs to dry 48 hours before the excess flocking is removed.  And yes there is a lot of flocking as per instructions.

Stephen

 

2 Comments »

  1. I have been flocking surfaces for about 25 years. I have the ‘big’ flocking gun-it holds more flocking and can create more pressure so the flocking embeds into the adhesive better. Giving the project to be flocked several sharp raps with a hammer helps. I sometimes vibrate the project piece with a detail sander-remove the sandpaper and vibrate the thing on the rubber pad. You already know to use plenty of flocking and to plan on recovering the excess. My other tip is to apply a generous coat of adhesive so the flock has a chance to stick before the adhesive sets. If you have bare spots, the only way to fix it is completely remove the failed attempt. Ask how I know.

    Mike
    Proud owner of a just-purchased copy of ‘Shepard’s Compleat Early Nineteenth Century Woodworker’

    Comment by Mike Mavodones — August 27, 2012 @ 1:50 pm

  2. We have been in the flocking world for over 65 years. I just noticed your comment about removing the masking before you apply the fibers. It is recommended that you leave the masking on until after you have applied the fibers and the finish has dried. If you remove the masking too soon you can drag some of the wet adhesive where you don’t want it. Another suggestion is if you use masking make sure you brush away from the masking not towards it. If you brush towards the masking the bristles can inadvertently leave adhesive under the masking. Ask how I know.

    Comment by Jill Goldman — February 3, 2013 @ 7:15 pm

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