Full Chisel Blog

June 26, 2014

Distaff Cup – for sale

This is a wheel that a friend found at the dump and gave it to me to restore.

dumpwheel

The wheel will eventually be for sale, it is on the back burner, as other jobs are in the queue first.  Here is a photograph from Southern Antiques and Folkart by Robert Morton showing a tin distaff cup.

distaff cup

I asked master blacksmith and tinsmith Brian Westover to make one for my wheel and also some for sale.

distaff cup1Here is what it looks like on the lower part of the yet unfinished distaff, a small peg slides out under the distaff to hold it in place.

distaff cup2

I will work on it when I get some free time between other projects.

You can order a distaff cup here.

Stephen

June 23, 2014

CPW Spinning Wheel, whorl repair and 3 new bobbins

I initially posted this as ‘Bobbin Shaped Object‘, but I was wrong apparently there was a family that made bobbins this way, just not for CPW’s. so I borrowed an original CPW bobbin from a friend to copy. I did repair the broken bobbin.

whorl repair4

I also finished the whorl repair, I used shellac and burnt umber pigment and was able to match the original finish.

I also applied a couple coats of Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish to the cherry bobbins and put them in the sun to give them a bit of a tan.

finished job

Also included in the order was a Chicken Nut, to finish out the restoration.  I put it in the post this morning.

Stephen

June 13, 2014

Spinning Wheel Repair – Bobbin Shaped Object

A customer sent me a flyer, whorl, and ‘bobbin’ for repairs to the whorl and requested three [3] new bobbins for her Canadian Production Wheel.  When I received it in the mail, I took off the whorl [it has left hand threads] and the ‘bobbin’ came apart like no other bobbin I had ever seen before and you can believe I have seen a lot of bobbins.

bobbin shaped object

As you can see from the picture the center shaft of the bobbin is butt joined to the pulley end rather than the traditional round socket holes and tenons on both ends?  I found this very curious and thought that whoever sold the wheel put this ‘bobbin shaped object’ in place in order to sell the wheel.  I notified the owner, who contacted the seller, who got in touch with me.

Apparently the seller had purchased it from a known collector on the East coast and had made sure the wheel was functional and did not notice the suspect bobbin prior to selling it to my customer.

I am convinced it was not done to deceive and I think everything is smoothed out with the seller [who wants me to do some work for them] and the project progresses.  I contacted a local friend and she lent me an original CPW bobbin to copy, so the new ones will look right and are constructed using original techniques.

whorl repair

You can see the chip in the whorl in the above photograph.  I marked out a dovetail Dutchman repair on the whorl, then using a small sharp knife cut the end grain birch to the right shape.

whorl repair1

I then cut a piece of end grain birch to fit into the dovetail and glued it in with Fish Glue.

whorl repair2

After the glue dried I shaped it to match the original whorl.

whorl repair3I will stain it to match the original color.

first bobbin

Here is the first of three bobbins, I still have to glue them together and finish them with Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish.  The bobbins are made out of cherry and I will put them in the sun for a tan, no stain.

Stephen

June 8, 2014

Tapered Reamer with a spokeshave blade

Yes this one has been on my list ever since I saw it illustrated in Salaman”s book and I did a more detailed sketch on page 48 of Shepherds’ Compleat Early Nineteenth Century Woodworker originally published in 1981.

Richard McDonald did the turning in hard maple for me, and Mark Schramm made the special long spokeshave blade, similar to these but 4″ long with short 1″ tangs.  [If you are interested in one of these blades send me an email.]

spokeshave tapered reamer

The layout was interesting and a bit challenging to get the cutting edge near the center line of the turning.  I drilled the through holes with gimlet bits starting with my smallest and working up a couple of sizes.  I then worried the square holes with a small 1/8″ chisel and used the ends of the tangs to scrape the holes to their final shape.

spokeshave tapered reamer2

I then had to cut off some of the lower tang so it did not protrude from the wood on the back side.  I waited until it was fit up before I sharpened the blade with a file and honed it on a whetstone.

spokeshave tapered reamer1

I had to make a recess for the chips to escape and not clog up the works as it cuts the taper.  I used a small gouge to carve the shape then one of my Tombstone Scrapers to smooth it out and deepen the channel.

All in all, I am happy with how it turned out and how well it works, even though it was not the easiest tool I have ever made it is finally off the list.

Now where is that list to see what is next up?

Stephen

June 1, 2014

Spindle Wheel – New Mother-of-All, and Spindle, finished

I have completed the new mother of all and spindle for the spinning wheel from Florida, time to pack it up and ship it home.

The flange and power pulley are turned of maple, then fit and the pulley turned to its final dimension.  The metal spindle from master blacksmith Mark Schramm was roughened up where the flange and pulley are attached, then washed with alcohol and etched with a fresh clove of garlic.  I used Fish Glue to attach them together.

spindle head4

spindle head5

With the parts all turned up and fit, I drilled the holes for the braided corn husk bearings and started the finish schedule.  The first coat is yellow ocher in Moses T’s St. John’s Oil followed by a sealing coat of burnt umber and shellac.

spindle head6

Then a coat of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil with burnt umber, then a thin seal coat of straight shellac.

spindle head7

The last color is of course black iron oxide in Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and allowed to dry.  Both the Birch and reclaimed Chestnut match the original color now.

spindle head8

Ready to pack up and ship.

Stephen

 

 

May 29, 2014

Boycott this Movie

Filed under: Documentation,Historical Material,Of Interest,Spinning Wheel,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 9:08 am

This is the partial dedication to my next book on Spinning Wheel Repair.  I have not mentioned the company by name but you can figure it out; I did this to avoid any legal problems.  Do not support this movie!

Dedication

This book is dedicated to the loving memory of the 44 spinning wheels, new and antique that were destroyed by fire in the production of a recent movie of a classic French/German fairy tale. Those Forty-four will be remembered and lamented as a senseless waste of historic material culture that can never be replaced. There are only a limited number of ‘antique’ spinning wheels and they are just not making them anymore and this large movie production company has eliminated forever these examples. This hits home for me because I restore old spinning wheels and I have done sets and been a property master on movies and commercials and it is indeed possible to make reproduction spinning wheel props that could have served the purpose without sacrificing heirlooms. At least they could have used computer generated images and ‘burned’ those instead of removing from our history extant examples and forever depriving those in the future of their legacy, enjoyment, educational value and historical significance. Had the filming been done in certain countries that have antiquities laws the large company would be criminally liable for their thoughtless actions. This is simply an act of historical vandalism done by the large heartless corporation and they should be held responsible for this tragedy. For a company that is dedicated to animal conservation and preservation, apparently historical objects can be destroyed with reckless abandon. The audacity of this studio is an absolute disgrace This dastardly deed cannot be undone nor forgiven.

Stephen

May 27, 2014

Spindle Wheel – New Mother-of-All, and Spindle

spindle head0This is a photograph sent in by a customer and in need of a new spindle head, maidens, and mother of all, and spindle.  They sent me the tension device on the left, an unusual two standard model with a tilting head and tightening nut to provide drive band tension.

spindle head1The uprights [standards] are made of chestnut, the block is birch and the nut is white oak, an American Wheel.  There is a name stamped on the end of the table, hard to see or tell exactly what it is but perhaps ‘NORTON’.  The new upright post that fits it the block is reclaimed chestnut and the Mother of All cross piece is birch.

I had to make a tapered reamer to match the tapered socket hole in the block, the first one was from soft maple and shattered during the third hole.  A new one of hard maple works much better.

tapered reamer1A slot is cut in the center and the blade is from an old saw and is draw filed square on the edge profile, it has four cutting edges and is used in both directions.

tapered reamer2The two maidens are also made of reclaimed chestnut and these are turned to fit the holes that have been reamed out with the above reamers.

spindle head1a

Here is how the detail on the maiden looks, after details on the existing standards.

spindle head2And here is the entire mother of all with the exception of the metal spindle, flange and drive pulley.  I will finish this piece first, the flange and pulley are made of maple which requires a different finish schedule.

spindle head3I will also permanently attach the single upright post into the birch cross piece with hide glue and a wedge, a little too small for a peg, either method is appropriate.  The maidens are just friction fit as is the mother of all into the tension block.

I also have to drill holes in the maidens to hold the corn husk bearings.

Stephen

May 25, 2014

Fairbanks Home – finished ready to install

The door and 3 lower sash windows after being treated with Moses T’s St. John’s Oil were primed with an oil based primer.  The door was then painted on off white yellow color on the inside as were two of the sashes.  One sash is painted the grey color on one side and white on the other.

sash and door complete

kitchen door exterior painted

The door was painted grey on the outside.  The window panes were set in glazing putty, secured with zinc points and the putty applied to the outside.  The photograph showes the putty ready to be knifed, this was done by Mr. Jones my helper.  I told him it looked like a bad cake frosting job, but it cleaned up just fine.

sash with glazing

Will be installing the door and windows tomorrow.

Stephen

May 17, 2014

Fairbanks Home – door and window sashes

I covered the first phase of the restoration work here.  After the door was stripped of the old paint and cleaned up, several repairs were made using liquid hide glue.  After the glue dried and the surfaces were brought to the correct level, it got several coats of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil, it ended up soaking up a quart of the oil/turpentine mix.

kitchen door repaired

The lower window sashes needed to be replaced and when removing them all of the lower rails did not come out with the rest of the sash, there was so much rot.  The damage is evident on the lower right hand corner of the photograph below.

kitchen window2

The rails and styles are mortised and tennoned together and the mullions are mortised, tennoned and coped to fit the details of the moldings.

new kitchen window sash

lower window sash

window sash oiled

Here are the three lower sashes, glued, pegged, trimmed to size and given a coat of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil. Once the oil has dried the door and sashes will be given an oil based  primer coat, followed after it dries with the finished oil based final coat of paint to match the paint in the house.

Stephen

 

May 7, 2014

Fairbanks Home – next phase

Filed under: Documentation,Hardware,Historical Material,Of Interest,Restoration,Uncategorized — Stephen Shepherd @ 3:10 pm

The next phase of restoration of the Fairbanks Home at This is the Place Heritage Park in Salt Lake City, Utah has begun.  The sill, lintle and molding restoration is documented here.

removing kitchen door

The kitchen door and three lower window sashes needed attention.  The original door in the kitchen addition was in need of stripping the many layers of old paint, restoration to the woodwork and reattaching the hardware.

kitchen door outside

kitchen door inside

Here are photographs of the inside and outside of the door.

kitchen door outside stripped

kitchen door inside stripped

And here is what it looks like after the paint is removed.  The large number of nails, 54 in one cleat was surprising.

kitchen door cleat

The three lower window sashes all looked liked like the one in the photograph, the lower rails were rotten and the sash did not stay together.  Two sashes in the original part of the house have a bead detail on the frames and mullions, the window from the kitchen addition has much simpler detail.

window damage

More on the work later, have roughed out all of the rails and styles for the sash frames and the mullions are all finished, so it is time to chop and cope.

Stephen

 

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